Around the island
Mark and Kurt hit the surf early but not before dropping Andy and I off at the shore where we rented bicycles for another circumnavigation of the island. Our hike had missed the spots wherever we hitchhiked and we were intrigued with this lush, beautiful and peaceful island.
On the North shore there is a paved road that we had followed before and closer to the ocean is a dirt road just perfect for our mountain bikes. On the North side of the island there is no protective coral reef so the waves come directly to the beach. Since most of the wave action comes from the South, these waves are relatively mild. At one point, we noted that we were the only people to be seen for the length of the beach.
A little further South the dirt road ends into the property of a closed Sofitel luxury hotel with beach front and stilted over-the-water bungalows. An Italian couple was just walking up from the water and told us about an area for snorkeling that is protected by a reef and contains large numbers of fish in crystal clear water. Unfortunately we did not have our snorkel gear but we walked over to check it out in case we had an opportunity to return.
The rest of the route went past the pearl farm and the blue-eyed eels before climbing several large hills. Unfortunately it was now mid-day and the tropical sun was reminding us of what kind of people venture out in these conditions. Being neither mad dogs nor Englishmen, we suffered from the heat as we climbed the hills.
We arrived back in the town of Fare before 2 and quickly sought refuge from the heat with lunch and a beer.
While we were gone, Mark and Kurt had revived the "Bitter End" on the beach near town. By "four fingers" we had the contents of 5 cruisers plus a few local people gathered by the barbecue. The range of foods was really amazing with steaks, tuna, pasta salads, vegetable salads, baked potatoes and cole slaw. Mark manned the grill with the help of 10-year old Sebastian who was in heaven getting instruction from Mark about how to properly grill the meal.
The local people generously provided the grill and the beach space in front of the rowing club. Rowing here means a six-man outrigger canoe which is the center of annual competitions throughout Polynesia. Here is the Society Islands only a few of the rowers match the body style of the Marquisian rowers who are all "cut" like huge body builders. I still remember the friendly Marquisian who "helped" us straighten the shaft of our stern anchor by bending it back by hand.
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