Opua, New Zealand
We are here, over 7 months and 8000 nautical miles from when we started - a third of the way around the world. I started the blog to let my family and friends know where I was and to provide a chronicle of the journey. Now that journey is concluded and so will my daily entries into the blog.
I plan to stay in NZ for a few months to walk some of the world famous treks and I may still post entries to the blog but they will not be daily because I will not have my computer with me all the time.
Looking back -
During this trip, we had many adventures and did many routine chores. We sailed, motored, snorkeled, surfed, fished, swam, hiked, dove and took a helicopter ride. We also cleaned the boat, cleaned the boat, cleaned the boat and did numerous repair and maintenance projects. We contracted staph infections and I broke a toe. We visited 8 island groups in 6 counties and met many fascinating people including the yachties from a dozen countries. I took almost 4000 photographs and posted 246 blog pages. We added some bottles and cans to the sea bottom (permitted by International law) and there are several dozen fish out there who now own fishing lures that used to belong to us. I also learned a lot and that is one of the main reasons I came on the trip.
Would I recommend the trip to others? In a heartbeat – so long as they are not overcome by seasickness. Would I go the rest of the way around? Under the right circumstances – yes. Would I own my own boat? I have asked myself that many times and the jury is still out. It is exciting but also a source of continuous work. The first part I like.
Just for fun, I have tried to make a list of the statistics as follows:
Item Number
Total distance traveled, approx. >7000 nautical miles
One-third of the way around the world
Total days traveled 231
Pictures taken, approx. >3000
Countries visited 6
French Polynesia, Cook Is., AM Samoa, W. Samoa, Tonga, Fiji
Island groups visited 8
Marquises, Tuomotus, Societies, Am. Samoa, W. Samoa, Tonga, Fiji
Islands visited 32
Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva, Tahuata, Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Manihi, Rangiroa, Tahiti, Mo’orea, Huahini, Ra’iatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora, Rarotonga, Suwarrow, Tutuila, Upolu, Niuatoputapu, Vanua Levu, Namenalala, Makogai, Ovalau, Viti Levu, Yanuka, Mbengga, Likuri, Malololailai, Beachcomber, Namotu, Navadra, Naviti, Waya
Surf spots 13
(It is against the surfing code to divulge the exact locations)
Fish caught 20
Yellow-fin tuna, Dorado, Wahoo, Grouper, Sp. Mackerel, Bonito
Lures lost 15
Waterfall hikes 5
Fatu Hiva, Tahiti, Ra’iatea, Upolu, Labasa
Boat cleanings >40
Boat repairs & maintenance, # parts >30
Spinnaker, cars, scuppers, jib pole, furling line, exhaust flap, anchor, rudder post, main halyard, cooling line, prop shaft, hatches, zinc, dinghy, outboard, windlass, alternator, prop nut, traveler, baggie wrinkles, boom bolt, lights, gas solenoid, reefing, engine maintenance, water maker maintenance. Not fixed – generator.
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
Day 230 Arriving at our ultimate destination
We measured the distance yet to go and decided if we motored with full sail, we might make Opua before the customs, immigration and quarantine closed for the day at 1800. Throughout the day, the wind varied from none to 10 to 15 knots and from the south to the southwest. Sometimes we were surfing along at over 9 knots and at other times we were pushing against the wind at less than 4. By the time we tied up to the quarantine dock it was 1815 and we had missed the opportunity to check in. This meant that we would have to stay on the boat until tomorrow and our dreams of a steak dinner and a beer were replaced by rice, spam and water – not an adequate substitute.
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Day 229 A bit of wind
Our position @ 0700 is S32º17/E171º38 and we continue under motor power. The large swells are still coming from the southeast at a 20 second interval. Looking out at the sea is like looking at a landscape of gently rolling blue hills of the same size and spacing.
By 0915 the wind picked up enough so we could make 6 knots under full sail and jib. It seems suddenly quiet without the whine of the diesel. The sky is mostly clear and the sun takes some of the chill out of the air but if we sit directly in the wind, it is obvious that we are moving toward colder climes. By 1100 the wind died again and we again added motor power to the sail’s effort in an attempt to get enough speed to complete the journey tomorrow.
A few birds have followed us for days. One is a black-brown bobby doing its acrobatics with the waves. The other may be some sort of tern. It is black on the bottom with white splotches on top, which may be the markings of an immature bird. It is smaller than the bobby and less sleek but also makes spectacular swoops and turns to stay just over the wave tops without ever flapping its wings. The most awesome bird sighting was an albatross that showed up three days ago and can be seen periodically about a quarter mile away. It also almost never flaps its wings. At one point it came close to the boat and we estimated its wingspan to be more than 6 feet - impressive. We tried to remember the rhyme of the ancient mariner but none of us could recall it.
Bluebottle jellyfish, small transparent discs with a semicircular sail, float by – a sign that we are nearing land. A pod of whales was sighted in the distance but they did not come near the boat. Sitting in the cockpit watching the huge 8 to 19 foot swells that come out of the south is reminiscent of several days on the Mexico crossing except now the waves are coming towards us rather than helping us along our way. We seem to be struggling to complete the passage with wind, wave and current against us and little Southern Star doing her best to make way against them. Fortunately, the sun shone today and it seemed warmer and the long wave pattern made the ride quite comfortable. I enjoyed the peace of the sea knowing it will not last.
By 0915 the wind picked up enough so we could make 6 knots under full sail and jib. It seems suddenly quiet without the whine of the diesel. The sky is mostly clear and the sun takes some of the chill out of the air but if we sit directly in the wind, it is obvious that we are moving toward colder climes. By 1100 the wind died again and we again added motor power to the sail’s effort in an attempt to get enough speed to complete the journey tomorrow.
A few birds have followed us for days. One is a black-brown bobby doing its acrobatics with the waves. The other may be some sort of tern. It is black on the bottom with white splotches on top, which may be the markings of an immature bird. It is smaller than the bobby and less sleek but also makes spectacular swoops and turns to stay just over the wave tops without ever flapping its wings. The most awesome bird sighting was an albatross that showed up three days ago and can be seen periodically about a quarter mile away. It also almost never flaps its wings. At one point it came close to the boat and we estimated its wingspan to be more than 6 feet - impressive. We tried to remember the rhyme of the ancient mariner but none of us could recall it.
Bluebottle jellyfish, small transparent discs with a semicircular sail, float by – a sign that we are nearing land. A pod of whales was sighted in the distance but they did not come near the boat. Sitting in the cockpit watching the huge 8 to 19 foot swells that come out of the south is reminiscent of several days on the Mexico crossing except now the waves are coming towards us rather than helping us along our way. We seem to be struggling to complete the passage with wind, wave and current against us and little Southern Star doing her best to make way against them. Fortunately, the sun shone today and it seemed warmer and the long wave pattern made the ride quite comfortable. I enjoyed the peace of the sea knowing it will not last.
Monday, October 22, 2007
Day 228 The wind is capricious
Our position @ 0700 is S30º40/E169º57. There is no appreciable wind and the sea has long 6 to 8 foot swells with almost no wind ripples on the surface. Swells like this indicate that there are storms a considerable distance away and indeed the GRIB files show gale force winds at the latitude of southern NZ. Right now that weather system is far to the south and we hope it stays there for the next 3 to 4 days. We are now 345 miles from Opua and will make port by then.
Just before midnight last night the wind died so we turned on the motor in order to make headway southwards. My bunk is right next to the engine compartment but after a day in the cold air, I sleep undisturbed.
Just before midnight last night the wind died so we turned on the motor in order to make headway southwards. My bunk is right next to the engine compartment but after a day in the cold air, I sleep undisturbed.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Day 227 Finally a SW wind
Our position @ 0945 is S28º55/E170º05. The wind is 10 to 15 knots from the south with a 4 to 6 foot wave.
In the morning we continued to crawl along until about noon when the wind finally began to shift to the southwest. We “shook out the reef and unfurled the jib” (deployed the entire sail and jib) to take advantage of the new wind position and finally began making progress southward at about 6 knots. We are still over 400 miles from Opua so it will be several days before we make landfall but the new speed and direction make us feel better about the situation and the smaller seas are more comfortable even though the boat is heeled over at a steep angle.
In the morning we continued to crawl along until about noon when the wind finally began to shift to the southwest. We “shook out the reef and unfurled the jib” (deployed the entire sail and jib) to take advantage of the new wind position and finally began making progress southward at about 6 knots. We are still over 400 miles from Opua so it will be several days before we make landfall but the new speed and direction make us feel better about the situation and the smaller seas are more comfortable even though the boat is heeled over at a steep angle.
Saturday, October 20, 2007
Day 226 Calmer but wrong direction
Our position @ 0800 is S27º56/E170º45 with a south wind of 15 to 20 knots and 10 to 12 foot waves.
By morning, the wind was no longer blowing the tops off the waves. One of the characteristics of a gale is that the whitecaps get blown off and form streaks of foam on the sea. By morning, there were whitecaps everywhere but they were staying put.
The south wind has not allowed us to go directly south so we head southwest in order to make way. At a steep angle toward the direction of the wind, the speed drops to less than 2 knots so we turn on the engine to get more speed. There are several compromises here. Head more into the wind and get south but lose speed, or head more westward and get speed but lose some of our direction toward NZ. Use the engine to get speed but use up fuel we may need for later. There are no right answers.
By noon we are west of 170º so we tack back directly east. After 4 hours of hand steering, we are no closer to NZ but at least we can now turn southward and be aimed at it.
By evening, the wind has lessened again but the direction is still the same – S/SE. We are a bit glum about the progress we have made and are ready for a wind shift so we can get on our way. When we provisioned in Fiji, we expected a 10 to 11 day trip and we thought we would be catching fish. The waves are too big to boat a fish so we do not even have a line in the water. We have run out of fresh meat and vegetables and are down to the last two eggs. From now on it’s pasta, rice and canned foods. We won’t starve, but the fare is not up to our normal standard. At least it’s not hardtack and grog.
By morning, the wind was no longer blowing the tops off the waves. One of the characteristics of a gale is that the whitecaps get blown off and form streaks of foam on the sea. By morning, there were whitecaps everywhere but they were staying put.
The south wind has not allowed us to go directly south so we head southwest in order to make way. At a steep angle toward the direction of the wind, the speed drops to less than 2 knots so we turn on the engine to get more speed. There are several compromises here. Head more into the wind and get south but lose speed, or head more westward and get speed but lose some of our direction toward NZ. Use the engine to get speed but use up fuel we may need for later. There are no right answers.
By noon we are west of 170º so we tack back directly east. After 4 hours of hand steering, we are no closer to NZ but at least we can now turn southward and be aimed at it.
By evening, the wind has lessened again but the direction is still the same – S/SE. We are a bit glum about the progress we have made and are ready for a wind shift so we can get on our way. When we provisioned in Fiji, we expected a 10 to 11 day trip and we thought we would be catching fish. The waves are too big to boat a fish so we do not even have a line in the water. We have run out of fresh meat and vegetables and are down to the last two eggs. From now on it’s pasta, rice and canned foods. We won’t starve, but the fare is not up to our normal standard. At least it’s not hardtack and grog.
Friday, October 19, 2007
Day 225 Moderate Gale
Our position at 0800 is S26º59 X E171º38.
The Beaufort scale defines the wind speed as a force 7 or moderate gale when it reaches 28 to 33 knots. Last night the sea lost its organized pattern and became a bedlam of short wind driven waves as the approaching high-pressure system pushed the wind speed above 30 knots. The effect inside the boat is impressive and very uncomfortable, particularly in the galley. We find ourselves feeling a bit like a James Bond martini – shaken but not stirred.
We cannot deploy the jib in these winds so we sail with a double-reefed main and the staysail. In this configuration, we only proceed at about 2 knots and must head S/SW with the wind 60º off the bow. With the engine assisting, the speed goes up to 4 knots and we can head a bit more southward but the bumpiness increases markedly.
Also the weather continues to be colder so that sitting in the cockpit means long pants, fleece, foul weather gear and socks.
Conversation is limited and it is too rough for cards or dominos so everyone is either buried in a book or napping. The sound of the wind and the sea, and sometimes the engine, is the only thing heard. I think everyone is girded against the movement of the boat and hoping either the weather calms down a bit or the next 4 days pass faster than the normal 96 hours. Let’s get there already!
The Beaufort scale defines the wind speed as a force 7 or moderate gale when it reaches 28 to 33 knots. Last night the sea lost its organized pattern and became a bedlam of short wind driven waves as the approaching high-pressure system pushed the wind speed above 30 knots. The effect inside the boat is impressive and very uncomfortable, particularly in the galley. We find ourselves feeling a bit like a James Bond martini – shaken but not stirred.
We cannot deploy the jib in these winds so we sail with a double-reefed main and the staysail. In this configuration, we only proceed at about 2 knots and must head S/SW with the wind 60º off the bow. With the engine assisting, the speed goes up to 4 knots and we can head a bit more southward but the bumpiness increases markedly.
Also the weather continues to be colder so that sitting in the cockpit means long pants, fleece, foul weather gear and socks.
Conversation is limited and it is too rough for cards or dominos so everyone is either buried in a book or napping. The sound of the wind and the sea, and sometimes the engine, is the only thing heard. I think everyone is girded against the movement of the boat and hoping either the weather calms down a bit or the next 4 days pass faster than the normal 96 hours. Let’s get there already!
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Day 224 Another nice day
Our position at 0720 is S25º59 X E172º49 and our 24-hour distance was 138 miles. Yesterday’s 20 to 25 knot wind and the smaller waves allowed us to make more progress. We are now farther west than our destination but our strategy is to play the weather. According to the GRIB forecast, another big high pressure area is now located between the east coast of Australia and the west coast of New Zealand with its center a bit north of the north coast of NZ. A high pressure is encircled with winds that blow anti-clockwise so the leading (eastern) edge will have winds from the south. We expect to encounter this wind in the early morning tomorrow. After the leading edge passes us, we will be in the middle of the system where there is less wind and we can make way southward. If we time it right, we will see the trailing edge of the system when we are two days out from NZ. At this point in the weather system the wind should be blowing toward the southeast and we can ride them to our destination.
There are two boats in front of us and we talk to them on the radio at 0800 and 1700 each day. One (Volaré) is about 4 days in front and the other (Piña Colada) is one day ahead. From their reports, we can validate the information we get from the Internet downloaded GRIB files. Volaré reported today that at 3AM this morning that they got hit with 40 knot winds from the southeast. While this was probably not a pretty thing to be in the middle of, it is consistent with the GRIB picture.
While Volaré is batting the cold wind 450 miles south of us, we are sitting in mild seas making our way south at 5½ knots under sunny skies. I’ll take our position over theirs.
There are two boats in front of us and we talk to them on the radio at 0800 and 1700 each day. One (Volaré) is about 4 days in front and the other (Piña Colada) is one day ahead. From their reports, we can validate the information we get from the Internet downloaded GRIB files. Volaré reported today that at 3AM this morning that they got hit with 40 knot winds from the southeast. While this was probably not a pretty thing to be in the middle of, it is consistent with the GRIB picture.
While Volaré is batting the cold wind 450 miles south of us, we are sitting in mild seas making our way south at 5½ knots under sunny skies. I’ll take our position over theirs.
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Day 223 Nice sailing
Our position at 0700 is S24º01 X E174º09. We traveled only 89 miles in the last 24 hours. In some ways, this is good as it allows us to wait for the next high pressure system to pass before we get too far south.
The sky cleared overnight and the waves diminished into an organized pattern of southern swells 4 to 6 feet high. This is the sailing that you see in the photos. Everyone on deck relaxing in the sun, reading a book while the boat swooshes ahead at 7 knots sending up small plumes of spray from the bow. The only thing slightly amiss is that we are all wearing long pants, sweatshirts and hats. Some are even wearing socks. Yes, the weather is definitely colder at this latitude.
Tonight Mark made another of his world-famous curries and we enjoyed a good dinner under the stars. As we get further south and as we move through the calendar, the position of the stars overhead changes. A month ago and in the tropics, Saturn was directly overhead in Scorpio. Now, Saturn is half way to the western horizon when the stars are first visible. The trade off is that Venus is now a very bright object in the early morning sky. Ah, the delights of the ancient mariner.
The sky cleared overnight and the waves diminished into an organized pattern of southern swells 4 to 6 feet high. This is the sailing that you see in the photos. Everyone on deck relaxing in the sun, reading a book while the boat swooshes ahead at 7 knots sending up small plumes of spray from the bow. The only thing slightly amiss is that we are all wearing long pants, sweatshirts and hats. Some are even wearing socks. Yes, the weather is definitely colder at this latitude.
Tonight Mark made another of his world-famous curries and we enjoyed a good dinner under the stars. As we get further south and as we move through the calendar, the position of the stars overhead changes. A month ago and in the tropics, Saturn was directly overhead in Scorpio. Now, Saturn is half way to the western horizon when the stars are first visible. The trade off is that Venus is now a very bright object in the early morning sky. Ah, the delights of the ancient mariner.
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Day 222 Bumpy ride
Position @ 0730 is S22º45 X E175º00.
The sea continued to build throughout the night and by morning the waves were 6 to 10 feet and very disorganized. This means there was almost no discernable pattern to the waves. When the waves are organized in a regular pattern, the ride may be rough but it is predictable. Our current waves are not only rough but it is harder to walk or do anything in the galley when you cannot tell when the next shake will be.
The sky is very clear and the barometer is very high at 1020 hPa (hecto pascals – the unit of barometric pressure for a meteorologist). The sun is out but it is definitely getting colder. Every now and then, Southern Star plows into a wave and spray comes over the boat and into the cockpit. It is clear that the water is colder as well.
We ride in mild discomfort throughout the day due to the waves and we are only making about 3 to 5 knots to the southwest.
The 1700 radio net reports that the wind should shift to eastward by tomorrow mid-day and remain from that direction until sometime on Friday. This would allow us to make better headway southward. Our destination is Opua in the Bay of Islands, which is at 35º00 south and 173º16 west. Each degree of latitude (the 360 lines that go east-west) are approximately 67 nautical miles apart. You can estimate how far we have to go by subtracting our current latitude (approximately 23º) from 35º and multiplying by 67 miles (you should get about 800 miles). Historically, we have made about 120 miles a day (average of 5 knots) so you can estimate it will take us another six and a half days to reach our destination. One complication is that this would put us into the Bay of Islands at 7PM and we would not enter this unknown harbor and try to anchor at night so either we speed up and get there next Tuesday during the day or we slow down and arrive in the morning on Wednesday. Of course these estimates are all based on the assumption that there will be no interference from unfavorable weather.
I spend over an hour each day listening to the radio net and then taking the information, transferring it to a log book and to a line on the chart and trying to predict our future course with the help of the GPS. This gives me a greater appreciation for the task of the ancient navigators who sailed by the stars – when they could see them. Thank you for technology.
The sea continued to build throughout the night and by morning the waves were 6 to 10 feet and very disorganized. This means there was almost no discernable pattern to the waves. When the waves are organized in a regular pattern, the ride may be rough but it is predictable. Our current waves are not only rough but it is harder to walk or do anything in the galley when you cannot tell when the next shake will be.
The sky is very clear and the barometer is very high at 1020 hPa (hecto pascals – the unit of barometric pressure for a meteorologist). The sun is out but it is definitely getting colder. Every now and then, Southern Star plows into a wave and spray comes over the boat and into the cockpit. It is clear that the water is colder as well.
We ride in mild discomfort throughout the day due to the waves and we are only making about 3 to 5 knots to the southwest.
The 1700 radio net reports that the wind should shift to eastward by tomorrow mid-day and remain from that direction until sometime on Friday. This would allow us to make better headway southward. Our destination is Opua in the Bay of Islands, which is at 35º00 south and 173º16 west. Each degree of latitude (the 360 lines that go east-west) are approximately 67 nautical miles apart. You can estimate how far we have to go by subtracting our current latitude (approximately 23º) from 35º and multiplying by 67 miles (you should get about 800 miles). Historically, we have made about 120 miles a day (average of 5 knots) so you can estimate it will take us another six and a half days to reach our destination. One complication is that this would put us into the Bay of Islands at 7PM and we would not enter this unknown harbor and try to anchor at night so either we speed up and get there next Tuesday during the day or we slow down and arrive in the morning on Wednesday. Of course these estimates are all based on the assumption that there will be no interference from unfavorable weather.
I spend over an hour each day listening to the radio net and then taking the information, transferring it to a log book and to a line on the chart and trying to predict our future course with the help of the GPS. This gives me a greater appreciation for the task of the ancient navigators who sailed by the stars – when they could see them. Thank you for technology.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Day 221 Changing weather
Position @ 0645 is S21º32 X E175º56
I am awakened at 0100 by the sound of the rain. Water is pouring on the hull and I can see lightning flashes through the porthole. Kurt is on watch and I poke my head out to see if he needs help but he waves me off. The wind is not a problem so the boat is under control. All the hatches are closed and we are dry inside. Once the person on watch is wet, there is nothing that another person can do except get wet with them. I go back to sleep.
By morning, the rain has stopped but it is still overcast. The wind shifted around overnight but returned to blow from the south-southeast. We continue on a south-southwest heading pushed by the stronger 20 knot wind. The sea is now building a bit after two days of exceptionally calm water.
By afternoon, the wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots and the sea increases to 4 to 6 feet and the ride gets bumpier. We double reef the main and attempt to furl the jib but the furling line becomes tangled in the drum and the jib is being whipped about by the strong wind. Mark takes the wheel while Kurt and Andy go forward with a fid to try to work the line loose. They are both wearing their harnesses and end up being totally immersed in the cold seawater several times as the bow of Southern Star buries itself in an oncoming wave.
After about 20 minutes, they free the line and we reduce the jib to about 20% of its normal size. This reduces our boat speed to 2 to 3 knots but makes for a more comfortable ride. At this speed, we will get to NZ by Christmas.
I am awakened at 0100 by the sound of the rain. Water is pouring on the hull and I can see lightning flashes through the porthole. Kurt is on watch and I poke my head out to see if he needs help but he waves me off. The wind is not a problem so the boat is under control. All the hatches are closed and we are dry inside. Once the person on watch is wet, there is nothing that another person can do except get wet with them. I go back to sleep.
By morning, the rain has stopped but it is still overcast. The wind shifted around overnight but returned to blow from the south-southeast. We continue on a south-southwest heading pushed by the stronger 20 knot wind. The sea is now building a bit after two days of exceptionally calm water.
By afternoon, the wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots and the sea increases to 4 to 6 feet and the ride gets bumpier. We double reef the main and attempt to furl the jib but the furling line becomes tangled in the drum and the jib is being whipped about by the strong wind. Mark takes the wheel while Kurt and Andy go forward with a fid to try to work the line loose. They are both wearing their harnesses and end up being totally immersed in the cold seawater several times as the bow of Southern Star buries itself in an oncoming wave.
After about 20 minutes, they free the line and we reduce the jib to about 20% of its normal size. This reduces our boat speed to 2 to 3 knots but makes for a more comfortable ride. At this speed, we will get to NZ by Christmas.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Day 220 Another fish
By morining the sky has clouded over and at 0600 a light rain begins to fall. The sea is remarkably calm yet there is enough wind to continue pushing us along at 6 to 7 knots. By 0700 we are at S19º42 E176º37 (for those following this on Google Earth). At 0930 I calculate that we have made 130 n-miles in the first 24 hours.
The rain has cooled the air a bit and it is a pleasant day to take the dog for a walk and then come in and sit by the fire with a hot chocolate. We settle for just the hot chocolate.
By 1130 the rain stops and the fishing reel begins to sing. Andy gets first fish using the pole - previously he had set the boat record using the drag line. After a brief fight he brings in a primitive looking specimen that we think may be a Spanish mackerel. It is certainly from the same family as barracuda and wahoo with big ferocious teeth. It is not a big fish but even when gaffed, it tries to bite Mark’s hand.
I make the best batch of tortillas yet and Kurt demonstrates that the fish does not look so mean after being Tempura-batter fried. We sit down to a delicious lunch of fish tacos.
While underway, we tend to take naps during the day to make up for the sleep lost during watches. Also, the interruption of sleep to go on watch causes fatigue, thus the afternoon is spent quietly with at least two people asleep at any time.
The sky is overcast all day and rain begins again just as I hand over my watch at 10 PM.
The rain has cooled the air a bit and it is a pleasant day to take the dog for a walk and then come in and sit by the fire with a hot chocolate. We settle for just the hot chocolate.
By 1130 the rain stops and the fishing reel begins to sing. Andy gets first fish using the pole - previously he had set the boat record using the drag line. After a brief fight he brings in a primitive looking specimen that we think may be a Spanish mackerel. It is certainly from the same family as barracuda and wahoo with big ferocious teeth. It is not a big fish but even when gaffed, it tries to bite Mark’s hand.
I make the best batch of tortillas yet and Kurt demonstrates that the fish does not look so mean after being Tempura-batter fried. We sit down to a delicious lunch of fish tacos.
While underway, we tend to take naps during the day to make up for the sleep lost during watches. Also, the interruption of sleep to go on watch causes fatigue, thus the afternoon is spent quietly with at least two people asleep at any time.
The sky is overcast all day and rain begins again just as I hand over my watch at 10 PM.
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Day 219 Denerau departure
By 0930 we have pulled the anchor and are proceeding out of the harbor. We turn south and motor sail for an hour until we have passed the reef near the Cloudbreak surf break.
At 1030 we turn off the engine and proceed under reefed sail and jib. The wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots from the southeast (120º). This is 60º off our bow as we bear 180º directly south. There are scattered clouds in the sky that make a fantastic backdrop for the sunset. There is no moon so by the time there is no more sunlight the sky and sea are very dark except for the phosphorescent plankton that lights up as the boat passes. In these conditions, we are making a very respectable 7 to 8 knots. This is perfect sailing weather.
By the end of my watch, the wind has backed to about 100º, which puts it off our beam (directly from the side) instead of off the bow. This is even a more comfortable point of sail. There is a lot of lightning behind us, probably over Fiji, but overhead it is partly cloudy and I can see my old friend Orion as I finish my watch.
At 1030 we turn off the engine and proceed under reefed sail and jib. The wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots from the southeast (120º). This is 60º off our bow as we bear 180º directly south. There are scattered clouds in the sky that make a fantastic backdrop for the sunset. There is no moon so by the time there is no more sunlight the sky and sea are very dark except for the phosphorescent plankton that lights up as the boat passes. In these conditions, we are making a very respectable 7 to 8 knots. This is perfect sailing weather.
By the end of my watch, the wind has backed to about 100º, which puts it off our beam (directly from the side) instead of off the bow. This is even a more comfortable point of sail. There is a lot of lightning behind us, probably over Fiji, but overhead it is partly cloudy and I can see my old friend Orion as I finish my watch.
Friday, October 12, 2007
Day 218 Final preparations
The most pressing need seems to be the Internet. Everyone wants to post their blogs and photos before we leave. I try to post pictures to the album but the connection is slow and I end up paying $F16 to not get much accomplished.
The shopping has been done and the boat is clean and ship-shape. The preparation for this upcoming passage is much like it was in Mexico for the initial crossing from Puerto Vallarta. We anticipate 9 to 11 days but much more intense weather, especially when we get to 30º south latitude.
There are two schools of thought on this passage. One says that you carefully watch the weather and guess how the fronts will move. The other says that you leave when it is convenient, sail to 30º south latitude and check the weather again. If it is favorable you continue south. If not, you hang out for a few days and wait for favorable weather. As we were preparing today, the boat next to us told us that we should wait another week because he had checked the weather and his guess is that it will be better in a week. Who can tell the weather that far in advance?
Once we leave Denerau, we will be off the Internet for 9 to 11 days so there will be no blog postings until we make landfall in Opua, New Zealand.
The shopping has been done and the boat is clean and ship-shape. The preparation for this upcoming passage is much like it was in Mexico for the initial crossing from Puerto Vallarta. We anticipate 9 to 11 days but much more intense weather, especially when we get to 30º south latitude.
There are two schools of thought on this passage. One says that you carefully watch the weather and guess how the fronts will move. The other says that you leave when it is convenient, sail to 30º south latitude and check the weather again. If it is favorable you continue south. If not, you hang out for a few days and wait for favorable weather. As we were preparing today, the boat next to us told us that we should wait another week because he had checked the weather and his guess is that it will be better in a week. Who can tell the weather that far in advance?
Once we leave Denerau, we will be off the Internet for 9 to 11 days so there will be no blog postings until we make landfall in Opua, New Zealand.
Thursday, October 11, 2007
Day 217 Provisioning
In the morning we do another wash down of Southern Star so she is clean and ready to sail.
Mark and I grab a taxi to Nadi to do the last provisioning at the open-air victuals market, the meat market and at the supermarket.
While we are gone, Andy and Kurt clean and stow the dinghy. Everything else that we can do has been done. Mark replaced the prop shaft seal and the scupper hoses the other day and we have abandoned the idea that we will get the generator running for the trip.
Southern Star is ready, we are ready and now it is up to the weather. The GRIB files show favorable winds to 30º south latitude but do not predict further than 7 days in advance. There is a high-pressure system over Australia that is moving eastward and may reach us before we make landfall. This could mean some unfavorable wind and storms but we will not know that until we get there. At worst case, we will add one day to the trip by turning north to ride with the wind until the front passes and we can return to our southerly path. We will wait until Saturday to take advantage of the most favorable weather and to get one more day of predictions.
Mark and I grab a taxi to Nadi to do the last provisioning at the open-air victuals market, the meat market and at the supermarket.
While we are gone, Andy and Kurt clean and stow the dinghy. Everything else that we can do has been done. Mark replaced the prop shaft seal and the scupper hoses the other day and we have abandoned the idea that we will get the generator running for the trip.
Southern Star is ready, we are ready and now it is up to the weather. The GRIB files show favorable winds to 30º south latitude but do not predict further than 7 days in advance. There is a high-pressure system over Australia that is moving eastward and may reach us before we make landfall. This could mean some unfavorable wind and storms but we will not know that until we get there. At worst case, we will add one day to the trip by turning north to ride with the wind until the front passes and we can return to our southerly path. We will wait until Saturday to take advantage of the most favorable weather and to get one more day of predictions.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Day 216 Vuda to Denerau
Because of the recommendations of several other yachties, we decide not to paint the bottom of Southern Star here in Fiji. Because of the heat, we decide to move back to Denerau where there is a breeze and more to do in the marina and environs.
Kurt and Andy return just as we are ready to untie the lines and by mid morning we are underway. Before we can leave Fiji, we must check out at Latoka so we head north and anchor in Latoka harbor. Mark goes ashore and within an hour is back on the boat and we are headed south to Denerau.
By late afternoon we are stern tied to the dock next to Windekind. We celebrate this evening with Windekind and Moonraker. Tomorrow Graham and Janet from Moonraker will fly home for a few weeks so there is a farewell party. Eric’s Mom is visiting Windekind so there is a welcoming party. Did we need these excuses for a party? Not really.
Kurt and Andy return just as we are ready to untie the lines and by mid morning we are underway. Before we can leave Fiji, we must check out at Latoka so we head north and anchor in Latoka harbor. Mark goes ashore and within an hour is back on the boat and we are headed south to Denerau.
By late afternoon we are stern tied to the dock next to Windekind. We celebrate this evening with Windekind and Moonraker. Tomorrow Graham and Janet from Moonraker will fly home for a few weeks so there is a farewell party. Eric’s Mom is visiting Windekind so there is a welcoming party. Did we need these excuses for a party? Not really.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Day 215 Still in Vuda
Not only is Vuda Point Marina isolated it is also very hot. The good news is that is protected from the wind. It there were a gale we would be safe. The bad news is it is protected from the wind. When the sky is clear and the weather hot, the boat deck is so hot it is difficult to walk on it barefoot.
We wait for the quote to repaint Southern Star and watch the weather GRIB files.
This evening, Kurt and Andy went off to Denerau to celebrate the birthday Eric on the Santa Barbara boat Windekind. Otherwise, there is not much to report.
We wait for the quote to repaint Southern Star and watch the weather GRIB files.
This evening, Kurt and Andy went off to Denerau to celebrate the birthday Eric on the Santa Barbara boat Windekind. Otherwise, there is not much to report.
Monday, October 8, 2007
Day 214 Exciting rugby
At 1AM Mark and I show up at Brian’s door and are welcomed in. Brian and his cute little terrier Ted live in a cozy house near the marina. He pulled some South African beef jerkey out of the freezer and Mark is in nostalgia heaven as the match starts. At one point South Africa is ahead 20 to 3; an automatic win for the team this far ahead – most of the time. With 13 minutes to go in the match, Fiji ties the score at 20:20 and I am wishing I was at the hotel instead of at Brian’s house. While this is more comfortable, the Fiji crowd must be going crazy. The island nations of Fiji, Tonga and Samoa do not even get to play in the International leagues yet they clearly can give the top teams a run for their money. By the end, South Africa has posted an impressive 37 to 20 win but the brave Fijians put on a proud display.
You have probably noticed by now that the last few days have not had much about activities of Southern Star. That is because there have not been many. Vuda Point Marina has very few activities available except the pool at the hotel and rugby on television. For U.S.$ 6 you can go to Latoka but there are no water-based activities like snorkeling and water polo in the ugly looking harbor water. There is the slow Internet where we do daily weather checks looking for favorable conditions for the passage south. Other than that and some conversation with fellow yachties, we spend our time watching and waiting.
You have probably noticed by now that the last few days have not had much about activities of Southern Star. That is because there have not been many. Vuda Point Marina has very few activities available except the pool at the hotel and rugby on television. For U.S.$ 6 you can go to Latoka but there are no water-based activities like snorkeling and water polo in the ugly looking harbor water. There is the slow Internet where we do daily weather checks looking for favorable conditions for the passage south. Other than that and some conversation with fellow yachties, we spend our time watching and waiting.
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Day 213 More rugby
At 0700 we are in front of the TV at the yacht club to watch the favored New Zealand All Blacks play the French national team. Earlier in the morning, England upset Australia, which was another of the favorites. In a somewhat dubious play (an illegal forward pass that was not called by the ref) the French pull off the second upset of the day. We are looking forward to the 1AM game tomorrow to see how Fiji will do against the other favorite, South Africa.
Sunday is live music day at the yacht club at the end of the point, 200 yards from the boat. The band starts to play at about 1400 and yachties, hotel guests from the resort next door and local residents turn up to sit at picnic tables, drink beer and enjoy the music, sun and snacks. Because of its location on the end of the point, the yacht club enjoys a breeze whereas the marina is in a protected location – good for stormy times but hot as Hades on a day like today.
The scene is like a German beer garden on a Sunday afternoon. People are relaxed and casual and enjoying the day. The only difference is that most of the people are members of a semi-private club – the cruising community. They have in common the experiences of the sea and of owning a boat thus total strangers start animated conversations like they were old friends.
The bar is decorated with Fiji flags because of Fiji Day and in support of the national rugby team. Mark is wearing his Springbock jersey and the bartender tells him that another man on the other side of the bar is also South African. Brian is a “local” having moved to Fiji 4 years ago. He owns a business that does boat repairs and soon Mark has determined that he might use Brian’s services for bottom painting rather than waiting until we get to New Zealand. The cost is probably quite a bit less here and the weather is not right yet for the passage so there would be no loss of time. Brian invites us to his house nearby to watch the 1AM game and promises to come by on Tuesday (Monday is a holiday) to provide a quotation on the painting job.
Sunday is live music day at the yacht club at the end of the point, 200 yards from the boat. The band starts to play at about 1400 and yachties, hotel guests from the resort next door and local residents turn up to sit at picnic tables, drink beer and enjoy the music, sun and snacks. Because of its location on the end of the point, the yacht club enjoys a breeze whereas the marina is in a protected location – good for stormy times but hot as Hades on a day like today.
The scene is like a German beer garden on a Sunday afternoon. People are relaxed and casual and enjoying the day. The only difference is that most of the people are members of a semi-private club – the cruising community. They have in common the experiences of the sea and of owning a boat thus total strangers start animated conversations like they were old friends.
The bar is decorated with Fiji flags because of Fiji Day and in support of the national rugby team. Mark is wearing his Springbock jersey and the bartender tells him that another man on the other side of the bar is also South African. Brian is a “local” having moved to Fiji 4 years ago. He owns a business that does boat repairs and soon Mark has determined that he might use Brian’s services for bottom painting rather than waiting until we get to New Zealand. The cost is probably quite a bit less here and the weather is not right yet for the passage so there would be no loss of time. Brian invites us to his house nearby to watch the 1AM game and promises to come by on Tuesday (Monday is a holiday) to provide a quotation on the painting job.
Saturday, October 6, 2007
Day 212 Latoka
We taxi into Latoka along with Dave and Melanie from Telarre, Debbie from Volaré and Tatyana from the German boat Breakpoint that is next to us at the marina.
The open-air produce market is much like the others we have seen, larger than Nadi and smaller than Suva. Saturday is market day in Fiji. In addition, Monday is Fiji Independence Day and there is a small carnival in the park and a parade planned for 1PM. Young kids are everywhere and the air is festive. Sunday at 1AM the Fiji rugby team will play one of the favorites – South Africa and the hype over Fiji’s chances adds to the excitement.
We buy some produce, wander through the carnival, buy some curry for lunch at one of the stands and are back in the taxi just as the parade is ready to start. Our taxi’s route is in the opposite direction as the parade so we see all the floats and marchers formed up and ready to begin. The weather is very hot and the sun strong so we elect to skip the parade and return to the boat.
After stowing the groceries, we walk over to the hotel that is adjacent to the marina and spend the afternoon trying to stay cool by the pool.
In the evening, we invite Volaré and Breakpoint over for Mark’s curry and end the evening talking politics with Thomas from Breakpoint. They have been sailing for 7 years and spent one year in Ushuaia on the Beagle Channel at the south end of Patagonia. Their boat is a “high latitude” aluminum hull so they were able to travel into the fjords of Chile and see the glaciers. It is quite an exciting story. Thomas’ political views are interesting as well. He postulates that Gorbochev won the Cold War by making the U.S. the last remaining superpower – an expensive position that will eventually weaken the U.S. economically. Is this one of the brilliant moves in the game of global chess?
The open-air produce market is much like the others we have seen, larger than Nadi and smaller than Suva. Saturday is market day in Fiji. In addition, Monday is Fiji Independence Day and there is a small carnival in the park and a parade planned for 1PM. Young kids are everywhere and the air is festive. Sunday at 1AM the Fiji rugby team will play one of the favorites – South Africa and the hype over Fiji’s chances adds to the excitement.
We buy some produce, wander through the carnival, buy some curry for lunch at one of the stands and are back in the taxi just as the parade is ready to start. Our taxi’s route is in the opposite direction as the parade so we see all the floats and marchers formed up and ready to begin. The weather is very hot and the sun strong so we elect to skip the parade and return to the boat.
After stowing the groceries, we walk over to the hotel that is adjacent to the marina and spend the afternoon trying to stay cool by the pool.
In the evening, we invite Volaré and Breakpoint over for Mark’s curry and end the evening talking politics with Thomas from Breakpoint. They have been sailing for 7 years and spent one year in Ushuaia on the Beagle Channel at the south end of Patagonia. Their boat is a “high latitude” aluminum hull so they were able to travel into the fjords of Chile and see the glaciers. It is quite an exciting story. Thomas’ political views are interesting as well. He postulates that Gorbochev won the Cold War by making the U.S. the last remaining superpower – an expensive position that will eventually weaken the U.S. economically. Is this one of the brilliant moves in the game of global chess?
Friday, October 5, 2007
Day 211 Vuda Point Marina
Another day, another island. That’s the life of a cruiser.
At the south end of Waya Island (the southern most island in the Yasawas) there is a small village and a backpacker resort. Connected to Waya by a narrow isthmus of sand is Wayalailai or little Waya Island. Just west of the isthmus there is a 50 foot deep lagoon surrounded by sandy beaches and this is where we put the hook after a day of sailing.
Again, the snorkeling is great and by late afternoon, we discover that the backpacker resort has cold beer – a perfect end to a day of sailing and snorkeling. The resort is named sunset because they believe that the sunset viewed from the isthmus is the best in Fiji. We try it but clouds near the horizon reduce the effect. Sunsets in the South Pacific are so spectacular that even a great one is downgraded relative to the best.
The resort is serving fish for dinner so we decide to stay. Outside the small main building some local women are selling handicrafts that are one of their main means of support beyond fishing and farming. I decide to buy the classic bone fishhook that is a signature of the South Pacific. Wearing it means that you will come back some day.
When I pay Racheal, she says “God bless you” so I ask if she is a Christian and if she reads the Bible. She says yes but she does not have a Bible of her own. Three days before, I was given a very nice Bible by Captain Mike of Good News. I promised that if I found someone who did not have one I would pass it on so I went back to the boat, retrieved it and came back with the gift. This Bible is really a very beautiful (and probably expensive) book; bound in leather with gold page edges. Racheal is overwhelmed and says that no one has ever given her anything like this before. Greg takes a picture of the presentation so you can see it in the blog album.
After dinner, Racheal returns to the resort with her 20 year old daughter to say thank you again and to get a copy of the picture. I will always remember our stopover at Waya.
At the south end of Waya Island (the southern most island in the Yasawas) there is a small village and a backpacker resort. Connected to Waya by a narrow isthmus of sand is Wayalailai or little Waya Island. Just west of the isthmus there is a 50 foot deep lagoon surrounded by sandy beaches and this is where we put the hook after a day of sailing.
Again, the snorkeling is great and by late afternoon, we discover that the backpacker resort has cold beer – a perfect end to a day of sailing and snorkeling. The resort is named sunset because they believe that the sunset viewed from the isthmus is the best in Fiji. We try it but clouds near the horizon reduce the effect. Sunsets in the South Pacific are so spectacular that even a great one is downgraded relative to the best.
The resort is serving fish for dinner so we decide to stay. Outside the small main building some local women are selling handicrafts that are one of their main means of support beyond fishing and farming. I decide to buy the classic bone fishhook that is a signature of the South Pacific. Wearing it means that you will come back some day.
When I pay Racheal, she says “God bless you” so I ask if she is a Christian and if she reads the Bible. She says yes but she does not have a Bible of her own. Three days before, I was given a very nice Bible by Captain Mike of Good News. I promised that if I found someone who did not have one I would pass it on so I went back to the boat, retrieved it and came back with the gift. This Bible is really a very beautiful (and probably expensive) book; bound in leather with gold page edges. Racheal is overwhelmed and says that no one has ever given her anything like this before. Greg takes a picture of the presentation so you can see it in the blog album.
After dinner, Racheal returns to the resort with her 20 year old daughter to say thank you again and to get a copy of the picture. I will always remember our stopover at Waya.
Thursday, October 4, 2007
Day 210 Waya Island
Another day, another island. That’s the life of a cruiser.
At the south end of Waya Island (the southern most island in the Yasawas) there is a small village and a backpacker resort. Connected to Waya by a narrow isthmus of sand is Wayalailai or little Waya Island. Just west of the isthmus there is a 50 foot deep lagoon surrounded by sandy beaches and this is where we put the hook after a day of sailing.
Again, the snorkeling is great and by late afternoon, we discover that the backpacker resort has cold beer – a perfect end to a day of sailing and snorkeling. The resort is named sunset because they believe that the sunset viewed from the isthmus is the best in Fiji. We try it but clouds near the horizon reduce the effect. Sunsets in the South Pacific are so spectacular that even a great one is downgraded relative to the best.
The resort is serving fish for dinner so we decide to stay. Outside the small main building some local women are selling handicrafts that are one of their main means of support beyond fishing and farming. I decide to buy the classic bone fishhook that is a signature of the South Pacific. Wearing it means that you will come back some day.
When I pay Racheal, she says “God bless you” so I ask if she is a Christian and if she reads the Bible. She says yes but she does not have a Bible of her own. Three days before, I was given a very nice Bible by Captain Mike of Good News. I promised that if I found someone who did not have one I would pass it on so I went back to the boat, retrieved it and came back with the gift. This Bible is really a very beautiful (and probably expensive) book; bound in leather with gold page edges. Racheal is overwhelmed and says that no one has ever given her anything like this before. Greg takes a picture of the presentation so you can see it in the blog album.
After dinner, Racheal returns to the resort with her 20 year old daughter to say thank you again and to get a copy of the picture. I will always remember our stopover at Waya.
At the south end of Waya Island (the southern most island in the Yasawas) there is a small village and a backpacker resort. Connected to Waya by a narrow isthmus of sand is Wayalailai or little Waya Island. Just west of the isthmus there is a 50 foot deep lagoon surrounded by sandy beaches and this is where we put the hook after a day of sailing.
Again, the snorkeling is great and by late afternoon, we discover that the backpacker resort has cold beer – a perfect end to a day of sailing and snorkeling. The resort is named sunset because they believe that the sunset viewed from the isthmus is the best in Fiji. We try it but clouds near the horizon reduce the effect. Sunsets in the South Pacific are so spectacular that even a great one is downgraded relative to the best.
The resort is serving fish for dinner so we decide to stay. Outside the small main building some local women are selling handicrafts that are one of their main means of support beyond fishing and farming. I decide to buy the classic bone fishhook that is a signature of the South Pacific. Wearing it means that you will come back some day.
When I pay Racheal, she says “God bless you” so I ask if she is a Christian and if she reads the Bible. She says yes but she does not have a Bible of her own. Three days before, I was given a very nice Bible by Captain Mike of Good News. I promised that if I found someone who did not have one I would pass it on so I went back to the boat, retrieved it and came back with the gift. This Bible is really a very beautiful (and probably expensive) book; bound in leather with gold page edges. Racheal is overwhelmed and says that no one has ever given her anything like this before. Greg takes a picture of the presentation so you can see it in the blog album.
After dinner, Racheal returns to the resort with her 20 year old daughter to say thank you again and to get a copy of the picture. I will always remember our stopover at Waya.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Day 209 Naviti Island
Greg and Debbie on Volaré are interested in visiting an island renowned for snorkeling with the manta rays so before 0800 we are both headed north to seek an anchorage nearby. The destination is near Naviti Island in the Yasawa group.
The Yasawas are like the Mananucas, volcanic with a barrier reef and spectacular beaches. The snorkeling here is the best we have seen in the entire trip. The table corals are two to three feet across and there are numerous fan and staghorn corals as well as a variety of others whose names I don’t know.
When it comes to names, I am even more handicapped at naming the fishes. To do so here would mean knowing a hundred different names of reef fishes. All I know is that they come in a huge variety of colors, shapes and sizes and are very beautiful. There are so many in some places that surface diving easily puts you in the middle of a cloud of swirling color.
We also see a few small shy sharks and a deadly poisonous scorpion fish (or lion fish). This flower like shape swims lazily near the bottom and we admire it from a safe distance. Beach bathers occasionally step on these fish and are badly injured by the poison in their spines.
Tonight we enjoy another wahoo dinner. One nice fish like the one we caught yesterday can provide us with several generous and delicious meals.
The Yasawas are like the Mananucas, volcanic with a barrier reef and spectacular beaches. The snorkeling here is the best we have seen in the entire trip. The table corals are two to three feet across and there are numerous fan and staghorn corals as well as a variety of others whose names I don’t know.
When it comes to names, I am even more handicapped at naming the fishes. To do so here would mean knowing a hundred different names of reef fishes. All I know is that they come in a huge variety of colors, shapes and sizes and are very beautiful. There are so many in some places that surface diving easily puts you in the middle of a cloud of swirling color.
We also see a few small shy sharks and a deadly poisonous scorpion fish (or lion fish). This flower like shape swims lazily near the bottom and we admire it from a safe distance. Beach bathers occasionally step on these fish and are badly injured by the poison in their spines.
Tonight we enjoy another wahoo dinner. One nice fish like the one we caught yesterday can provide us with several generous and delicious meals.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Day 208 Navadra Island
This morning we weigh anchor and head for an anchorage that is between Navadra Island and Vaua Levu in the Mamanuca Island group at S17º27.6 by E177º04.2. Talerra left yesterday and reported on the radio that the area is beautiful.
We sail about halfway until the wind dies and turn on the motor for the rest of the way. We are accompanied by Greg and Debbie on Volaré. They live in Sydney, Australia but their boat is a Catalina 42 built and purchased in California. This is their fourth boat and Greg researched a long time before deciding on a Catalina. Volaré is clearly a fast boat and quickly outdistances us. Debbie does not participate much in the sailing so Greg is mostly single handing – another sign of very capable boat design. Later in the day, I get a tour and am quite impressed. The cabin is spacious and comfortable and the layout is very practical.
The anchorages is in a lagoon between the two islands. This island group is of volcanic origin and like the Marquises Island, they are topped with spires – remnants of the cone of a volcano. Unlike the Marquises, however, they have a barrier reef and a lagoon and this means the opportunity for a shallow anchorage and beaches. In fact, the beaches are quite spectacular – broad and covered with soft white sand. This is spoiled a tiny bit by the shards of coral and bits of pumice that are mixed with the sand – but close to perfect is still pretty nice.
There are several other boats already at anchor so we organize a beach barbecue to take place at “four fingers” and by sunset we have a cozy fire on shore with a dozen yachties enjoying grilled steaks and a freshly caught wahoo. Life can be tough when cruising
We sail about halfway until the wind dies and turn on the motor for the rest of the way. We are accompanied by Greg and Debbie on Volaré. They live in Sydney, Australia but their boat is a Catalina 42 built and purchased in California. This is their fourth boat and Greg researched a long time before deciding on a Catalina. Volaré is clearly a fast boat and quickly outdistances us. Debbie does not participate much in the sailing so Greg is mostly single handing – another sign of very capable boat design. Later in the day, I get a tour and am quite impressed. The cabin is spacious and comfortable and the layout is very practical.
The anchorages is in a lagoon between the two islands. This island group is of volcanic origin and like the Marquises Island, they are topped with spires – remnants of the cone of a volcano. Unlike the Marquises, however, they have a barrier reef and a lagoon and this means the opportunity for a shallow anchorage and beaches. In fact, the beaches are quite spectacular – broad and covered with soft white sand. This is spoiled a tiny bit by the shards of coral and bits of pumice that are mixed with the sand – but close to perfect is still pretty nice.
There are several other boats already at anchor so we organize a beach barbecue to take place at “four fingers” and by sunset we have a cozy fire on shore with a dozen yachties enjoying grilled steaks and a freshly caught wahoo. Life can be tough when cruising
Monday, October 1, 2007
Day 207 Prepare to depart
The sky is as clear as it gets and there is little wind. The GRIB files show a large high-pressure system sitting over Fiji and extending almost to New Zealand. This is not the right time to leave so we decide to head north for a few days and enjoy some of the outer islands. By now, the departure preparation is routine – wash the boat inside and out, provision, plot the course and get ready to pull up the anchor early the next day for the passage.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
