Opua, New Zealand
We are here, over 7 months and 8000 nautical miles from when we started - a third of the way around the world. I started the blog to let my family and friends know where I was and to provide a chronicle of the journey. Now that journey is concluded and so will my daily entries into the blog.
I plan to stay in NZ for a few months to walk some of the world famous treks and I may still post entries to the blog but they will not be daily because I will not have my computer with me all the time.
Looking back -
During this trip, we had many adventures and did many routine chores. We sailed, motored, snorkeled, surfed, fished, swam, hiked, dove and took a helicopter ride. We also cleaned the boat, cleaned the boat, cleaned the boat and did numerous repair and maintenance projects. We contracted staph infections and I broke a toe. We visited 8 island groups in 6 counties and met many fascinating people including the yachties from a dozen countries. I took almost 4000 photographs and posted 246 blog pages. We added some bottles and cans to the sea bottom (permitted by International law) and there are several dozen fish out there who now own fishing lures that used to belong to us. I also learned a lot and that is one of the main reasons I came on the trip.
Would I recommend the trip to others? In a heartbeat – so long as they are not overcome by seasickness. Would I go the rest of the way around? Under the right circumstances – yes. Would I own my own boat? I have asked myself that many times and the jury is still out. It is exciting but also a source of continuous work. The first part I like.
Just for fun, I have tried to make a list of the statistics as follows:
Item Number
Total distance traveled, approx. >7000 nautical miles
One-third of the way around the world
Total days traveled 231
Pictures taken, approx. >3000
Countries visited 6
French Polynesia, Cook Is., AM Samoa, W. Samoa, Tonga, Fiji
Island groups visited 8
Marquises, Tuomotus, Societies, Am. Samoa, W. Samoa, Tonga, Fiji
Islands visited 32
Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva, Tahuata, Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Manihi, Rangiroa, Tahiti, Mo’orea, Huahini, Ra’iatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora, Rarotonga, Suwarrow, Tutuila, Upolu, Niuatoputapu, Vanua Levu, Namenalala, Makogai, Ovalau, Viti Levu, Yanuka, Mbengga, Likuri, Malololailai, Beachcomber, Namotu, Navadra, Naviti, Waya
Surf spots 13
(It is against the surfing code to divulge the exact locations)
Fish caught 20
Yellow-fin tuna, Dorado, Wahoo, Grouper, Sp. Mackerel, Bonito
Lures lost 15
Waterfall hikes 5
Fatu Hiva, Tahiti, Ra’iatea, Upolu, Labasa
Boat cleanings >40
Boat repairs & maintenance, # parts >30
Spinnaker, cars, scuppers, jib pole, furling line, exhaust flap, anchor, rudder post, main halyard, cooling line, prop shaft, hatches, zinc, dinghy, outboard, windlass, alternator, prop nut, traveler, baggie wrinkles, boom bolt, lights, gas solenoid, reefing, engine maintenance, water maker maintenance. Not fixed – generator.
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
Day 230 Arriving at our ultimate destination
We measured the distance yet to go and decided if we motored with full sail, we might make Opua before the customs, immigration and quarantine closed for the day at 1800. Throughout the day, the wind varied from none to 10 to 15 knots and from the south to the southwest. Sometimes we were surfing along at over 9 knots and at other times we were pushing against the wind at less than 4. By the time we tied up to the quarantine dock it was 1815 and we had missed the opportunity to check in. This meant that we would have to stay on the boat until tomorrow and our dreams of a steak dinner and a beer were replaced by rice, spam and water – not an adequate substitute.
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Day 229 A bit of wind
Our position @ 0700 is S32º17/E171º38 and we continue under motor power. The large swells are still coming from the southeast at a 20 second interval. Looking out at the sea is like looking at a landscape of gently rolling blue hills of the same size and spacing.
By 0915 the wind picked up enough so we could make 6 knots under full sail and jib. It seems suddenly quiet without the whine of the diesel. The sky is mostly clear and the sun takes some of the chill out of the air but if we sit directly in the wind, it is obvious that we are moving toward colder climes. By 1100 the wind died again and we again added motor power to the sail’s effort in an attempt to get enough speed to complete the journey tomorrow.
A few birds have followed us for days. One is a black-brown bobby doing its acrobatics with the waves. The other may be some sort of tern. It is black on the bottom with white splotches on top, which may be the markings of an immature bird. It is smaller than the bobby and less sleek but also makes spectacular swoops and turns to stay just over the wave tops without ever flapping its wings. The most awesome bird sighting was an albatross that showed up three days ago and can be seen periodically about a quarter mile away. It also almost never flaps its wings. At one point it came close to the boat and we estimated its wingspan to be more than 6 feet - impressive. We tried to remember the rhyme of the ancient mariner but none of us could recall it.
Bluebottle jellyfish, small transparent discs with a semicircular sail, float by – a sign that we are nearing land. A pod of whales was sighted in the distance but they did not come near the boat. Sitting in the cockpit watching the huge 8 to 19 foot swells that come out of the south is reminiscent of several days on the Mexico crossing except now the waves are coming towards us rather than helping us along our way. We seem to be struggling to complete the passage with wind, wave and current against us and little Southern Star doing her best to make way against them. Fortunately, the sun shone today and it seemed warmer and the long wave pattern made the ride quite comfortable. I enjoyed the peace of the sea knowing it will not last.
By 0915 the wind picked up enough so we could make 6 knots under full sail and jib. It seems suddenly quiet without the whine of the diesel. The sky is mostly clear and the sun takes some of the chill out of the air but if we sit directly in the wind, it is obvious that we are moving toward colder climes. By 1100 the wind died again and we again added motor power to the sail’s effort in an attempt to get enough speed to complete the journey tomorrow.
A few birds have followed us for days. One is a black-brown bobby doing its acrobatics with the waves. The other may be some sort of tern. It is black on the bottom with white splotches on top, which may be the markings of an immature bird. It is smaller than the bobby and less sleek but also makes spectacular swoops and turns to stay just over the wave tops without ever flapping its wings. The most awesome bird sighting was an albatross that showed up three days ago and can be seen periodically about a quarter mile away. It also almost never flaps its wings. At one point it came close to the boat and we estimated its wingspan to be more than 6 feet - impressive. We tried to remember the rhyme of the ancient mariner but none of us could recall it.
Bluebottle jellyfish, small transparent discs with a semicircular sail, float by – a sign that we are nearing land. A pod of whales was sighted in the distance but they did not come near the boat. Sitting in the cockpit watching the huge 8 to 19 foot swells that come out of the south is reminiscent of several days on the Mexico crossing except now the waves are coming towards us rather than helping us along our way. We seem to be struggling to complete the passage with wind, wave and current against us and little Southern Star doing her best to make way against them. Fortunately, the sun shone today and it seemed warmer and the long wave pattern made the ride quite comfortable. I enjoyed the peace of the sea knowing it will not last.
Monday, October 22, 2007
Day 228 The wind is capricious
Our position @ 0700 is S30º40/E169º57. There is no appreciable wind and the sea has long 6 to 8 foot swells with almost no wind ripples on the surface. Swells like this indicate that there are storms a considerable distance away and indeed the GRIB files show gale force winds at the latitude of southern NZ. Right now that weather system is far to the south and we hope it stays there for the next 3 to 4 days. We are now 345 miles from Opua and will make port by then.
Just before midnight last night the wind died so we turned on the motor in order to make headway southwards. My bunk is right next to the engine compartment but after a day in the cold air, I sleep undisturbed.
Just before midnight last night the wind died so we turned on the motor in order to make headway southwards. My bunk is right next to the engine compartment but after a day in the cold air, I sleep undisturbed.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Day 227 Finally a SW wind
Our position @ 0945 is S28º55/E170º05. The wind is 10 to 15 knots from the south with a 4 to 6 foot wave.
In the morning we continued to crawl along until about noon when the wind finally began to shift to the southwest. We “shook out the reef and unfurled the jib” (deployed the entire sail and jib) to take advantage of the new wind position and finally began making progress southward at about 6 knots. We are still over 400 miles from Opua so it will be several days before we make landfall but the new speed and direction make us feel better about the situation and the smaller seas are more comfortable even though the boat is heeled over at a steep angle.
In the morning we continued to crawl along until about noon when the wind finally began to shift to the southwest. We “shook out the reef and unfurled the jib” (deployed the entire sail and jib) to take advantage of the new wind position and finally began making progress southward at about 6 knots. We are still over 400 miles from Opua so it will be several days before we make landfall but the new speed and direction make us feel better about the situation and the smaller seas are more comfortable even though the boat is heeled over at a steep angle.
Saturday, October 20, 2007
Day 226 Calmer but wrong direction
Our position @ 0800 is S27º56/E170º45 with a south wind of 15 to 20 knots and 10 to 12 foot waves.
By morning, the wind was no longer blowing the tops off the waves. One of the characteristics of a gale is that the whitecaps get blown off and form streaks of foam on the sea. By morning, there were whitecaps everywhere but they were staying put.
The south wind has not allowed us to go directly south so we head southwest in order to make way. At a steep angle toward the direction of the wind, the speed drops to less than 2 knots so we turn on the engine to get more speed. There are several compromises here. Head more into the wind and get south but lose speed, or head more westward and get speed but lose some of our direction toward NZ. Use the engine to get speed but use up fuel we may need for later. There are no right answers.
By noon we are west of 170º so we tack back directly east. After 4 hours of hand steering, we are no closer to NZ but at least we can now turn southward and be aimed at it.
By evening, the wind has lessened again but the direction is still the same – S/SE. We are a bit glum about the progress we have made and are ready for a wind shift so we can get on our way. When we provisioned in Fiji, we expected a 10 to 11 day trip and we thought we would be catching fish. The waves are too big to boat a fish so we do not even have a line in the water. We have run out of fresh meat and vegetables and are down to the last two eggs. From now on it’s pasta, rice and canned foods. We won’t starve, but the fare is not up to our normal standard. At least it’s not hardtack and grog.
By morning, the wind was no longer blowing the tops off the waves. One of the characteristics of a gale is that the whitecaps get blown off and form streaks of foam on the sea. By morning, there were whitecaps everywhere but they were staying put.
The south wind has not allowed us to go directly south so we head southwest in order to make way. At a steep angle toward the direction of the wind, the speed drops to less than 2 knots so we turn on the engine to get more speed. There are several compromises here. Head more into the wind and get south but lose speed, or head more westward and get speed but lose some of our direction toward NZ. Use the engine to get speed but use up fuel we may need for later. There are no right answers.
By noon we are west of 170º so we tack back directly east. After 4 hours of hand steering, we are no closer to NZ but at least we can now turn southward and be aimed at it.
By evening, the wind has lessened again but the direction is still the same – S/SE. We are a bit glum about the progress we have made and are ready for a wind shift so we can get on our way. When we provisioned in Fiji, we expected a 10 to 11 day trip and we thought we would be catching fish. The waves are too big to boat a fish so we do not even have a line in the water. We have run out of fresh meat and vegetables and are down to the last two eggs. From now on it’s pasta, rice and canned foods. We won’t starve, but the fare is not up to our normal standard. At least it’s not hardtack and grog.
Friday, October 19, 2007
Day 225 Moderate Gale
Our position at 0800 is S26º59 X E171º38.
The Beaufort scale defines the wind speed as a force 7 or moderate gale when it reaches 28 to 33 knots. Last night the sea lost its organized pattern and became a bedlam of short wind driven waves as the approaching high-pressure system pushed the wind speed above 30 knots. The effect inside the boat is impressive and very uncomfortable, particularly in the galley. We find ourselves feeling a bit like a James Bond martini – shaken but not stirred.
We cannot deploy the jib in these winds so we sail with a double-reefed main and the staysail. In this configuration, we only proceed at about 2 knots and must head S/SW with the wind 60º off the bow. With the engine assisting, the speed goes up to 4 knots and we can head a bit more southward but the bumpiness increases markedly.
Also the weather continues to be colder so that sitting in the cockpit means long pants, fleece, foul weather gear and socks.
Conversation is limited and it is too rough for cards or dominos so everyone is either buried in a book or napping. The sound of the wind and the sea, and sometimes the engine, is the only thing heard. I think everyone is girded against the movement of the boat and hoping either the weather calms down a bit or the next 4 days pass faster than the normal 96 hours. Let’s get there already!
The Beaufort scale defines the wind speed as a force 7 or moderate gale when it reaches 28 to 33 knots. Last night the sea lost its organized pattern and became a bedlam of short wind driven waves as the approaching high-pressure system pushed the wind speed above 30 knots. The effect inside the boat is impressive and very uncomfortable, particularly in the galley. We find ourselves feeling a bit like a James Bond martini – shaken but not stirred.
We cannot deploy the jib in these winds so we sail with a double-reefed main and the staysail. In this configuration, we only proceed at about 2 knots and must head S/SW with the wind 60º off the bow. With the engine assisting, the speed goes up to 4 knots and we can head a bit more southward but the bumpiness increases markedly.
Also the weather continues to be colder so that sitting in the cockpit means long pants, fleece, foul weather gear and socks.
Conversation is limited and it is too rough for cards or dominos so everyone is either buried in a book or napping. The sound of the wind and the sea, and sometimes the engine, is the only thing heard. I think everyone is girded against the movement of the boat and hoping either the weather calms down a bit or the next 4 days pass faster than the normal 96 hours. Let’s get there already!
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Day 224 Another nice day
Our position at 0720 is S25º59 X E172º49 and our 24-hour distance was 138 miles. Yesterday’s 20 to 25 knot wind and the smaller waves allowed us to make more progress. We are now farther west than our destination but our strategy is to play the weather. According to the GRIB forecast, another big high pressure area is now located between the east coast of Australia and the west coast of New Zealand with its center a bit north of the north coast of NZ. A high pressure is encircled with winds that blow anti-clockwise so the leading (eastern) edge will have winds from the south. We expect to encounter this wind in the early morning tomorrow. After the leading edge passes us, we will be in the middle of the system where there is less wind and we can make way southward. If we time it right, we will see the trailing edge of the system when we are two days out from NZ. At this point in the weather system the wind should be blowing toward the southeast and we can ride them to our destination.
There are two boats in front of us and we talk to them on the radio at 0800 and 1700 each day. One (Volaré) is about 4 days in front and the other (Piña Colada) is one day ahead. From their reports, we can validate the information we get from the Internet downloaded GRIB files. Volaré reported today that at 3AM this morning that they got hit with 40 knot winds from the southeast. While this was probably not a pretty thing to be in the middle of, it is consistent with the GRIB picture.
While Volaré is batting the cold wind 450 miles south of us, we are sitting in mild seas making our way south at 5½ knots under sunny skies. I’ll take our position over theirs.
There are two boats in front of us and we talk to them on the radio at 0800 and 1700 each day. One (Volaré) is about 4 days in front and the other (Piña Colada) is one day ahead. From their reports, we can validate the information we get from the Internet downloaded GRIB files. Volaré reported today that at 3AM this morning that they got hit with 40 knot winds from the southeast. While this was probably not a pretty thing to be in the middle of, it is consistent with the GRIB picture.
While Volaré is batting the cold wind 450 miles south of us, we are sitting in mild seas making our way south at 5½ knots under sunny skies. I’ll take our position over theirs.
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Day 223 Nice sailing
Our position at 0700 is S24º01 X E174º09. We traveled only 89 miles in the last 24 hours. In some ways, this is good as it allows us to wait for the next high pressure system to pass before we get too far south.
The sky cleared overnight and the waves diminished into an organized pattern of southern swells 4 to 6 feet high. This is the sailing that you see in the photos. Everyone on deck relaxing in the sun, reading a book while the boat swooshes ahead at 7 knots sending up small plumes of spray from the bow. The only thing slightly amiss is that we are all wearing long pants, sweatshirts and hats. Some are even wearing socks. Yes, the weather is definitely colder at this latitude.
Tonight Mark made another of his world-famous curries and we enjoyed a good dinner under the stars. As we get further south and as we move through the calendar, the position of the stars overhead changes. A month ago and in the tropics, Saturn was directly overhead in Scorpio. Now, Saturn is half way to the western horizon when the stars are first visible. The trade off is that Venus is now a very bright object in the early morning sky. Ah, the delights of the ancient mariner.
The sky cleared overnight and the waves diminished into an organized pattern of southern swells 4 to 6 feet high. This is the sailing that you see in the photos. Everyone on deck relaxing in the sun, reading a book while the boat swooshes ahead at 7 knots sending up small plumes of spray from the bow. The only thing slightly amiss is that we are all wearing long pants, sweatshirts and hats. Some are even wearing socks. Yes, the weather is definitely colder at this latitude.
Tonight Mark made another of his world-famous curries and we enjoyed a good dinner under the stars. As we get further south and as we move through the calendar, the position of the stars overhead changes. A month ago and in the tropics, Saturn was directly overhead in Scorpio. Now, Saturn is half way to the western horizon when the stars are first visible. The trade off is that Venus is now a very bright object in the early morning sky. Ah, the delights of the ancient mariner.
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Day 222 Bumpy ride
Position @ 0730 is S22º45 X E175º00.
The sea continued to build throughout the night and by morning the waves were 6 to 10 feet and very disorganized. This means there was almost no discernable pattern to the waves. When the waves are organized in a regular pattern, the ride may be rough but it is predictable. Our current waves are not only rough but it is harder to walk or do anything in the galley when you cannot tell when the next shake will be.
The sky is very clear and the barometer is very high at 1020 hPa (hecto pascals – the unit of barometric pressure for a meteorologist). The sun is out but it is definitely getting colder. Every now and then, Southern Star plows into a wave and spray comes over the boat and into the cockpit. It is clear that the water is colder as well.
We ride in mild discomfort throughout the day due to the waves and we are only making about 3 to 5 knots to the southwest.
The 1700 radio net reports that the wind should shift to eastward by tomorrow mid-day and remain from that direction until sometime on Friday. This would allow us to make better headway southward. Our destination is Opua in the Bay of Islands, which is at 35º00 south and 173º16 west. Each degree of latitude (the 360 lines that go east-west) are approximately 67 nautical miles apart. You can estimate how far we have to go by subtracting our current latitude (approximately 23º) from 35º and multiplying by 67 miles (you should get about 800 miles). Historically, we have made about 120 miles a day (average of 5 knots) so you can estimate it will take us another six and a half days to reach our destination. One complication is that this would put us into the Bay of Islands at 7PM and we would not enter this unknown harbor and try to anchor at night so either we speed up and get there next Tuesday during the day or we slow down and arrive in the morning on Wednesday. Of course these estimates are all based on the assumption that there will be no interference from unfavorable weather.
I spend over an hour each day listening to the radio net and then taking the information, transferring it to a log book and to a line on the chart and trying to predict our future course with the help of the GPS. This gives me a greater appreciation for the task of the ancient navigators who sailed by the stars – when they could see them. Thank you for technology.
The sea continued to build throughout the night and by morning the waves were 6 to 10 feet and very disorganized. This means there was almost no discernable pattern to the waves. When the waves are organized in a regular pattern, the ride may be rough but it is predictable. Our current waves are not only rough but it is harder to walk or do anything in the galley when you cannot tell when the next shake will be.
The sky is very clear and the barometer is very high at 1020 hPa (hecto pascals – the unit of barometric pressure for a meteorologist). The sun is out but it is definitely getting colder. Every now and then, Southern Star plows into a wave and spray comes over the boat and into the cockpit. It is clear that the water is colder as well.
We ride in mild discomfort throughout the day due to the waves and we are only making about 3 to 5 knots to the southwest.
The 1700 radio net reports that the wind should shift to eastward by tomorrow mid-day and remain from that direction until sometime on Friday. This would allow us to make better headway southward. Our destination is Opua in the Bay of Islands, which is at 35º00 south and 173º16 west. Each degree of latitude (the 360 lines that go east-west) are approximately 67 nautical miles apart. You can estimate how far we have to go by subtracting our current latitude (approximately 23º) from 35º and multiplying by 67 miles (you should get about 800 miles). Historically, we have made about 120 miles a day (average of 5 knots) so you can estimate it will take us another six and a half days to reach our destination. One complication is that this would put us into the Bay of Islands at 7PM and we would not enter this unknown harbor and try to anchor at night so either we speed up and get there next Tuesday during the day or we slow down and arrive in the morning on Wednesday. Of course these estimates are all based on the assumption that there will be no interference from unfavorable weather.
I spend over an hour each day listening to the radio net and then taking the information, transferring it to a log book and to a line on the chart and trying to predict our future course with the help of the GPS. This gives me a greater appreciation for the task of the ancient navigators who sailed by the stars – when they could see them. Thank you for technology.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Day 221 Changing weather
Position @ 0645 is S21º32 X E175º56
I am awakened at 0100 by the sound of the rain. Water is pouring on the hull and I can see lightning flashes through the porthole. Kurt is on watch and I poke my head out to see if he needs help but he waves me off. The wind is not a problem so the boat is under control. All the hatches are closed and we are dry inside. Once the person on watch is wet, there is nothing that another person can do except get wet with them. I go back to sleep.
By morning, the rain has stopped but it is still overcast. The wind shifted around overnight but returned to blow from the south-southeast. We continue on a south-southwest heading pushed by the stronger 20 knot wind. The sea is now building a bit after two days of exceptionally calm water.
By afternoon, the wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots and the sea increases to 4 to 6 feet and the ride gets bumpier. We double reef the main and attempt to furl the jib but the furling line becomes tangled in the drum and the jib is being whipped about by the strong wind. Mark takes the wheel while Kurt and Andy go forward with a fid to try to work the line loose. They are both wearing their harnesses and end up being totally immersed in the cold seawater several times as the bow of Southern Star buries itself in an oncoming wave.
After about 20 minutes, they free the line and we reduce the jib to about 20% of its normal size. This reduces our boat speed to 2 to 3 knots but makes for a more comfortable ride. At this speed, we will get to NZ by Christmas.
I am awakened at 0100 by the sound of the rain. Water is pouring on the hull and I can see lightning flashes through the porthole. Kurt is on watch and I poke my head out to see if he needs help but he waves me off. The wind is not a problem so the boat is under control. All the hatches are closed and we are dry inside. Once the person on watch is wet, there is nothing that another person can do except get wet with them. I go back to sleep.
By morning, the rain has stopped but it is still overcast. The wind shifted around overnight but returned to blow from the south-southeast. We continue on a south-southwest heading pushed by the stronger 20 knot wind. The sea is now building a bit after two days of exceptionally calm water.
By afternoon, the wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots and the sea increases to 4 to 6 feet and the ride gets bumpier. We double reef the main and attempt to furl the jib but the furling line becomes tangled in the drum and the jib is being whipped about by the strong wind. Mark takes the wheel while Kurt and Andy go forward with a fid to try to work the line loose. They are both wearing their harnesses and end up being totally immersed in the cold seawater several times as the bow of Southern Star buries itself in an oncoming wave.
After about 20 minutes, they free the line and we reduce the jib to about 20% of its normal size. This reduces our boat speed to 2 to 3 knots but makes for a more comfortable ride. At this speed, we will get to NZ by Christmas.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Day 220 Another fish
By morining the sky has clouded over and at 0600 a light rain begins to fall. The sea is remarkably calm yet there is enough wind to continue pushing us along at 6 to 7 knots. By 0700 we are at S19º42 E176º37 (for those following this on Google Earth). At 0930 I calculate that we have made 130 n-miles in the first 24 hours.
The rain has cooled the air a bit and it is a pleasant day to take the dog for a walk and then come in and sit by the fire with a hot chocolate. We settle for just the hot chocolate.
By 1130 the rain stops and the fishing reel begins to sing. Andy gets first fish using the pole - previously he had set the boat record using the drag line. After a brief fight he brings in a primitive looking specimen that we think may be a Spanish mackerel. It is certainly from the same family as barracuda and wahoo with big ferocious teeth. It is not a big fish but even when gaffed, it tries to bite Mark’s hand.
I make the best batch of tortillas yet and Kurt demonstrates that the fish does not look so mean after being Tempura-batter fried. We sit down to a delicious lunch of fish tacos.
While underway, we tend to take naps during the day to make up for the sleep lost during watches. Also, the interruption of sleep to go on watch causes fatigue, thus the afternoon is spent quietly with at least two people asleep at any time.
The sky is overcast all day and rain begins again just as I hand over my watch at 10 PM.
The rain has cooled the air a bit and it is a pleasant day to take the dog for a walk and then come in and sit by the fire with a hot chocolate. We settle for just the hot chocolate.
By 1130 the rain stops and the fishing reel begins to sing. Andy gets first fish using the pole - previously he had set the boat record using the drag line. After a brief fight he brings in a primitive looking specimen that we think may be a Spanish mackerel. It is certainly from the same family as barracuda and wahoo with big ferocious teeth. It is not a big fish but even when gaffed, it tries to bite Mark’s hand.
I make the best batch of tortillas yet and Kurt demonstrates that the fish does not look so mean after being Tempura-batter fried. We sit down to a delicious lunch of fish tacos.
While underway, we tend to take naps during the day to make up for the sleep lost during watches. Also, the interruption of sleep to go on watch causes fatigue, thus the afternoon is spent quietly with at least two people asleep at any time.
The sky is overcast all day and rain begins again just as I hand over my watch at 10 PM.
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Day 219 Denerau departure
By 0930 we have pulled the anchor and are proceeding out of the harbor. We turn south and motor sail for an hour until we have passed the reef near the Cloudbreak surf break.
At 1030 we turn off the engine and proceed under reefed sail and jib. The wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots from the southeast (120º). This is 60º off our bow as we bear 180º directly south. There are scattered clouds in the sky that make a fantastic backdrop for the sunset. There is no moon so by the time there is no more sunlight the sky and sea are very dark except for the phosphorescent plankton that lights up as the boat passes. In these conditions, we are making a very respectable 7 to 8 knots. This is perfect sailing weather.
By the end of my watch, the wind has backed to about 100º, which puts it off our beam (directly from the side) instead of off the bow. This is even a more comfortable point of sail. There is a lot of lightning behind us, probably over Fiji, but overhead it is partly cloudy and I can see my old friend Orion as I finish my watch.
At 1030 we turn off the engine and proceed under reefed sail and jib. The wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots from the southeast (120º). This is 60º off our bow as we bear 180º directly south. There are scattered clouds in the sky that make a fantastic backdrop for the sunset. There is no moon so by the time there is no more sunlight the sky and sea are very dark except for the phosphorescent plankton that lights up as the boat passes. In these conditions, we are making a very respectable 7 to 8 knots. This is perfect sailing weather.
By the end of my watch, the wind has backed to about 100º, which puts it off our beam (directly from the side) instead of off the bow. This is even a more comfortable point of sail. There is a lot of lightning behind us, probably over Fiji, but overhead it is partly cloudy and I can see my old friend Orion as I finish my watch.
Friday, October 12, 2007
Day 218 Final preparations
The most pressing need seems to be the Internet. Everyone wants to post their blogs and photos before we leave. I try to post pictures to the album but the connection is slow and I end up paying $F16 to not get much accomplished.
The shopping has been done and the boat is clean and ship-shape. The preparation for this upcoming passage is much like it was in Mexico for the initial crossing from Puerto Vallarta. We anticipate 9 to 11 days but much more intense weather, especially when we get to 30º south latitude.
There are two schools of thought on this passage. One says that you carefully watch the weather and guess how the fronts will move. The other says that you leave when it is convenient, sail to 30º south latitude and check the weather again. If it is favorable you continue south. If not, you hang out for a few days and wait for favorable weather. As we were preparing today, the boat next to us told us that we should wait another week because he had checked the weather and his guess is that it will be better in a week. Who can tell the weather that far in advance?
Once we leave Denerau, we will be off the Internet for 9 to 11 days so there will be no blog postings until we make landfall in Opua, New Zealand.
The shopping has been done and the boat is clean and ship-shape. The preparation for this upcoming passage is much like it was in Mexico for the initial crossing from Puerto Vallarta. We anticipate 9 to 11 days but much more intense weather, especially when we get to 30º south latitude.
There are two schools of thought on this passage. One says that you carefully watch the weather and guess how the fronts will move. The other says that you leave when it is convenient, sail to 30º south latitude and check the weather again. If it is favorable you continue south. If not, you hang out for a few days and wait for favorable weather. As we were preparing today, the boat next to us told us that we should wait another week because he had checked the weather and his guess is that it will be better in a week. Who can tell the weather that far in advance?
Once we leave Denerau, we will be off the Internet for 9 to 11 days so there will be no blog postings until we make landfall in Opua, New Zealand.
Thursday, October 11, 2007
Day 217 Provisioning
In the morning we do another wash down of Southern Star so she is clean and ready to sail.
Mark and I grab a taxi to Nadi to do the last provisioning at the open-air victuals market, the meat market and at the supermarket.
While we are gone, Andy and Kurt clean and stow the dinghy. Everything else that we can do has been done. Mark replaced the prop shaft seal and the scupper hoses the other day and we have abandoned the idea that we will get the generator running for the trip.
Southern Star is ready, we are ready and now it is up to the weather. The GRIB files show favorable winds to 30º south latitude but do not predict further than 7 days in advance. There is a high-pressure system over Australia that is moving eastward and may reach us before we make landfall. This could mean some unfavorable wind and storms but we will not know that until we get there. At worst case, we will add one day to the trip by turning north to ride with the wind until the front passes and we can return to our southerly path. We will wait until Saturday to take advantage of the most favorable weather and to get one more day of predictions.
Mark and I grab a taxi to Nadi to do the last provisioning at the open-air victuals market, the meat market and at the supermarket.
While we are gone, Andy and Kurt clean and stow the dinghy. Everything else that we can do has been done. Mark replaced the prop shaft seal and the scupper hoses the other day and we have abandoned the idea that we will get the generator running for the trip.
Southern Star is ready, we are ready and now it is up to the weather. The GRIB files show favorable winds to 30º south latitude but do not predict further than 7 days in advance. There is a high-pressure system over Australia that is moving eastward and may reach us before we make landfall. This could mean some unfavorable wind and storms but we will not know that until we get there. At worst case, we will add one day to the trip by turning north to ride with the wind until the front passes and we can return to our southerly path. We will wait until Saturday to take advantage of the most favorable weather and to get one more day of predictions.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Day 216 Vuda to Denerau
Because of the recommendations of several other yachties, we decide not to paint the bottom of Southern Star here in Fiji. Because of the heat, we decide to move back to Denerau where there is a breeze and more to do in the marina and environs.
Kurt and Andy return just as we are ready to untie the lines and by mid morning we are underway. Before we can leave Fiji, we must check out at Latoka so we head north and anchor in Latoka harbor. Mark goes ashore and within an hour is back on the boat and we are headed south to Denerau.
By late afternoon we are stern tied to the dock next to Windekind. We celebrate this evening with Windekind and Moonraker. Tomorrow Graham and Janet from Moonraker will fly home for a few weeks so there is a farewell party. Eric’s Mom is visiting Windekind so there is a welcoming party. Did we need these excuses for a party? Not really.
Kurt and Andy return just as we are ready to untie the lines and by mid morning we are underway. Before we can leave Fiji, we must check out at Latoka so we head north and anchor in Latoka harbor. Mark goes ashore and within an hour is back on the boat and we are headed south to Denerau.
By late afternoon we are stern tied to the dock next to Windekind. We celebrate this evening with Windekind and Moonraker. Tomorrow Graham and Janet from Moonraker will fly home for a few weeks so there is a farewell party. Eric’s Mom is visiting Windekind so there is a welcoming party. Did we need these excuses for a party? Not really.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Day 215 Still in Vuda
Not only is Vuda Point Marina isolated it is also very hot. The good news is that is protected from the wind. It there were a gale we would be safe. The bad news is it is protected from the wind. When the sky is clear and the weather hot, the boat deck is so hot it is difficult to walk on it barefoot.
We wait for the quote to repaint Southern Star and watch the weather GRIB files.
This evening, Kurt and Andy went off to Denerau to celebrate the birthday Eric on the Santa Barbara boat Windekind. Otherwise, there is not much to report.
We wait for the quote to repaint Southern Star and watch the weather GRIB files.
This evening, Kurt and Andy went off to Denerau to celebrate the birthday Eric on the Santa Barbara boat Windekind. Otherwise, there is not much to report.
Monday, October 8, 2007
Day 214 Exciting rugby
At 1AM Mark and I show up at Brian’s door and are welcomed in. Brian and his cute little terrier Ted live in a cozy house near the marina. He pulled some South African beef jerkey out of the freezer and Mark is in nostalgia heaven as the match starts. At one point South Africa is ahead 20 to 3; an automatic win for the team this far ahead – most of the time. With 13 minutes to go in the match, Fiji ties the score at 20:20 and I am wishing I was at the hotel instead of at Brian’s house. While this is more comfortable, the Fiji crowd must be going crazy. The island nations of Fiji, Tonga and Samoa do not even get to play in the International leagues yet they clearly can give the top teams a run for their money. By the end, South Africa has posted an impressive 37 to 20 win but the brave Fijians put on a proud display.
You have probably noticed by now that the last few days have not had much about activities of Southern Star. That is because there have not been many. Vuda Point Marina has very few activities available except the pool at the hotel and rugby on television. For U.S.$ 6 you can go to Latoka but there are no water-based activities like snorkeling and water polo in the ugly looking harbor water. There is the slow Internet where we do daily weather checks looking for favorable conditions for the passage south. Other than that and some conversation with fellow yachties, we spend our time watching and waiting.
You have probably noticed by now that the last few days have not had much about activities of Southern Star. That is because there have not been many. Vuda Point Marina has very few activities available except the pool at the hotel and rugby on television. For U.S.$ 6 you can go to Latoka but there are no water-based activities like snorkeling and water polo in the ugly looking harbor water. There is the slow Internet where we do daily weather checks looking for favorable conditions for the passage south. Other than that and some conversation with fellow yachties, we spend our time watching and waiting.
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Day 213 More rugby
At 0700 we are in front of the TV at the yacht club to watch the favored New Zealand All Blacks play the French national team. Earlier in the morning, England upset Australia, which was another of the favorites. In a somewhat dubious play (an illegal forward pass that was not called by the ref) the French pull off the second upset of the day. We are looking forward to the 1AM game tomorrow to see how Fiji will do against the other favorite, South Africa.
Sunday is live music day at the yacht club at the end of the point, 200 yards from the boat. The band starts to play at about 1400 and yachties, hotel guests from the resort next door and local residents turn up to sit at picnic tables, drink beer and enjoy the music, sun and snacks. Because of its location on the end of the point, the yacht club enjoys a breeze whereas the marina is in a protected location – good for stormy times but hot as Hades on a day like today.
The scene is like a German beer garden on a Sunday afternoon. People are relaxed and casual and enjoying the day. The only difference is that most of the people are members of a semi-private club – the cruising community. They have in common the experiences of the sea and of owning a boat thus total strangers start animated conversations like they were old friends.
The bar is decorated with Fiji flags because of Fiji Day and in support of the national rugby team. Mark is wearing his Springbock jersey and the bartender tells him that another man on the other side of the bar is also South African. Brian is a “local” having moved to Fiji 4 years ago. He owns a business that does boat repairs and soon Mark has determined that he might use Brian’s services for bottom painting rather than waiting until we get to New Zealand. The cost is probably quite a bit less here and the weather is not right yet for the passage so there would be no loss of time. Brian invites us to his house nearby to watch the 1AM game and promises to come by on Tuesday (Monday is a holiday) to provide a quotation on the painting job.
Sunday is live music day at the yacht club at the end of the point, 200 yards from the boat. The band starts to play at about 1400 and yachties, hotel guests from the resort next door and local residents turn up to sit at picnic tables, drink beer and enjoy the music, sun and snacks. Because of its location on the end of the point, the yacht club enjoys a breeze whereas the marina is in a protected location – good for stormy times but hot as Hades on a day like today.
The scene is like a German beer garden on a Sunday afternoon. People are relaxed and casual and enjoying the day. The only difference is that most of the people are members of a semi-private club – the cruising community. They have in common the experiences of the sea and of owning a boat thus total strangers start animated conversations like they were old friends.
The bar is decorated with Fiji flags because of Fiji Day and in support of the national rugby team. Mark is wearing his Springbock jersey and the bartender tells him that another man on the other side of the bar is also South African. Brian is a “local” having moved to Fiji 4 years ago. He owns a business that does boat repairs and soon Mark has determined that he might use Brian’s services for bottom painting rather than waiting until we get to New Zealand. The cost is probably quite a bit less here and the weather is not right yet for the passage so there would be no loss of time. Brian invites us to his house nearby to watch the 1AM game and promises to come by on Tuesday (Monday is a holiday) to provide a quotation on the painting job.
Saturday, October 6, 2007
Day 212 Latoka
We taxi into Latoka along with Dave and Melanie from Telarre, Debbie from Volaré and Tatyana from the German boat Breakpoint that is next to us at the marina.
The open-air produce market is much like the others we have seen, larger than Nadi and smaller than Suva. Saturday is market day in Fiji. In addition, Monday is Fiji Independence Day and there is a small carnival in the park and a parade planned for 1PM. Young kids are everywhere and the air is festive. Sunday at 1AM the Fiji rugby team will play one of the favorites – South Africa and the hype over Fiji’s chances adds to the excitement.
We buy some produce, wander through the carnival, buy some curry for lunch at one of the stands and are back in the taxi just as the parade is ready to start. Our taxi’s route is in the opposite direction as the parade so we see all the floats and marchers formed up and ready to begin. The weather is very hot and the sun strong so we elect to skip the parade and return to the boat.
After stowing the groceries, we walk over to the hotel that is adjacent to the marina and spend the afternoon trying to stay cool by the pool.
In the evening, we invite Volaré and Breakpoint over for Mark’s curry and end the evening talking politics with Thomas from Breakpoint. They have been sailing for 7 years and spent one year in Ushuaia on the Beagle Channel at the south end of Patagonia. Their boat is a “high latitude” aluminum hull so they were able to travel into the fjords of Chile and see the glaciers. It is quite an exciting story. Thomas’ political views are interesting as well. He postulates that Gorbochev won the Cold War by making the U.S. the last remaining superpower – an expensive position that will eventually weaken the U.S. economically. Is this one of the brilliant moves in the game of global chess?
The open-air produce market is much like the others we have seen, larger than Nadi and smaller than Suva. Saturday is market day in Fiji. In addition, Monday is Fiji Independence Day and there is a small carnival in the park and a parade planned for 1PM. Young kids are everywhere and the air is festive. Sunday at 1AM the Fiji rugby team will play one of the favorites – South Africa and the hype over Fiji’s chances adds to the excitement.
We buy some produce, wander through the carnival, buy some curry for lunch at one of the stands and are back in the taxi just as the parade is ready to start. Our taxi’s route is in the opposite direction as the parade so we see all the floats and marchers formed up and ready to begin. The weather is very hot and the sun strong so we elect to skip the parade and return to the boat.
After stowing the groceries, we walk over to the hotel that is adjacent to the marina and spend the afternoon trying to stay cool by the pool.
In the evening, we invite Volaré and Breakpoint over for Mark’s curry and end the evening talking politics with Thomas from Breakpoint. They have been sailing for 7 years and spent one year in Ushuaia on the Beagle Channel at the south end of Patagonia. Their boat is a “high latitude” aluminum hull so they were able to travel into the fjords of Chile and see the glaciers. It is quite an exciting story. Thomas’ political views are interesting as well. He postulates that Gorbochev won the Cold War by making the U.S. the last remaining superpower – an expensive position that will eventually weaken the U.S. economically. Is this one of the brilliant moves in the game of global chess?
Friday, October 5, 2007
Day 211 Vuda Point Marina
Another day, another island. That’s the life of a cruiser.
At the south end of Waya Island (the southern most island in the Yasawas) there is a small village and a backpacker resort. Connected to Waya by a narrow isthmus of sand is Wayalailai or little Waya Island. Just west of the isthmus there is a 50 foot deep lagoon surrounded by sandy beaches and this is where we put the hook after a day of sailing.
Again, the snorkeling is great and by late afternoon, we discover that the backpacker resort has cold beer – a perfect end to a day of sailing and snorkeling. The resort is named sunset because they believe that the sunset viewed from the isthmus is the best in Fiji. We try it but clouds near the horizon reduce the effect. Sunsets in the South Pacific are so spectacular that even a great one is downgraded relative to the best.
The resort is serving fish for dinner so we decide to stay. Outside the small main building some local women are selling handicrafts that are one of their main means of support beyond fishing and farming. I decide to buy the classic bone fishhook that is a signature of the South Pacific. Wearing it means that you will come back some day.
When I pay Racheal, she says “God bless you” so I ask if she is a Christian and if she reads the Bible. She says yes but she does not have a Bible of her own. Three days before, I was given a very nice Bible by Captain Mike of Good News. I promised that if I found someone who did not have one I would pass it on so I went back to the boat, retrieved it and came back with the gift. This Bible is really a very beautiful (and probably expensive) book; bound in leather with gold page edges. Racheal is overwhelmed and says that no one has ever given her anything like this before. Greg takes a picture of the presentation so you can see it in the blog album.
After dinner, Racheal returns to the resort with her 20 year old daughter to say thank you again and to get a copy of the picture. I will always remember our stopover at Waya.
At the south end of Waya Island (the southern most island in the Yasawas) there is a small village and a backpacker resort. Connected to Waya by a narrow isthmus of sand is Wayalailai or little Waya Island. Just west of the isthmus there is a 50 foot deep lagoon surrounded by sandy beaches and this is where we put the hook after a day of sailing.
Again, the snorkeling is great and by late afternoon, we discover that the backpacker resort has cold beer – a perfect end to a day of sailing and snorkeling. The resort is named sunset because they believe that the sunset viewed from the isthmus is the best in Fiji. We try it but clouds near the horizon reduce the effect. Sunsets in the South Pacific are so spectacular that even a great one is downgraded relative to the best.
The resort is serving fish for dinner so we decide to stay. Outside the small main building some local women are selling handicrafts that are one of their main means of support beyond fishing and farming. I decide to buy the classic bone fishhook that is a signature of the South Pacific. Wearing it means that you will come back some day.
When I pay Racheal, she says “God bless you” so I ask if she is a Christian and if she reads the Bible. She says yes but she does not have a Bible of her own. Three days before, I was given a very nice Bible by Captain Mike of Good News. I promised that if I found someone who did not have one I would pass it on so I went back to the boat, retrieved it and came back with the gift. This Bible is really a very beautiful (and probably expensive) book; bound in leather with gold page edges. Racheal is overwhelmed and says that no one has ever given her anything like this before. Greg takes a picture of the presentation so you can see it in the blog album.
After dinner, Racheal returns to the resort with her 20 year old daughter to say thank you again and to get a copy of the picture. I will always remember our stopover at Waya.
Thursday, October 4, 2007
Day 210 Waya Island
Another day, another island. That’s the life of a cruiser.
At the south end of Waya Island (the southern most island in the Yasawas) there is a small village and a backpacker resort. Connected to Waya by a narrow isthmus of sand is Wayalailai or little Waya Island. Just west of the isthmus there is a 50 foot deep lagoon surrounded by sandy beaches and this is where we put the hook after a day of sailing.
Again, the snorkeling is great and by late afternoon, we discover that the backpacker resort has cold beer – a perfect end to a day of sailing and snorkeling. The resort is named sunset because they believe that the sunset viewed from the isthmus is the best in Fiji. We try it but clouds near the horizon reduce the effect. Sunsets in the South Pacific are so spectacular that even a great one is downgraded relative to the best.
The resort is serving fish for dinner so we decide to stay. Outside the small main building some local women are selling handicrafts that are one of their main means of support beyond fishing and farming. I decide to buy the classic bone fishhook that is a signature of the South Pacific. Wearing it means that you will come back some day.
When I pay Racheal, she says “God bless you” so I ask if she is a Christian and if she reads the Bible. She says yes but she does not have a Bible of her own. Three days before, I was given a very nice Bible by Captain Mike of Good News. I promised that if I found someone who did not have one I would pass it on so I went back to the boat, retrieved it and came back with the gift. This Bible is really a very beautiful (and probably expensive) book; bound in leather with gold page edges. Racheal is overwhelmed and says that no one has ever given her anything like this before. Greg takes a picture of the presentation so you can see it in the blog album.
After dinner, Racheal returns to the resort with her 20 year old daughter to say thank you again and to get a copy of the picture. I will always remember our stopover at Waya.
At the south end of Waya Island (the southern most island in the Yasawas) there is a small village and a backpacker resort. Connected to Waya by a narrow isthmus of sand is Wayalailai or little Waya Island. Just west of the isthmus there is a 50 foot deep lagoon surrounded by sandy beaches and this is where we put the hook after a day of sailing.
Again, the snorkeling is great and by late afternoon, we discover that the backpacker resort has cold beer – a perfect end to a day of sailing and snorkeling. The resort is named sunset because they believe that the sunset viewed from the isthmus is the best in Fiji. We try it but clouds near the horizon reduce the effect. Sunsets in the South Pacific are so spectacular that even a great one is downgraded relative to the best.
The resort is serving fish for dinner so we decide to stay. Outside the small main building some local women are selling handicrafts that are one of their main means of support beyond fishing and farming. I decide to buy the classic bone fishhook that is a signature of the South Pacific. Wearing it means that you will come back some day.
When I pay Racheal, she says “God bless you” so I ask if she is a Christian and if she reads the Bible. She says yes but she does not have a Bible of her own. Three days before, I was given a very nice Bible by Captain Mike of Good News. I promised that if I found someone who did not have one I would pass it on so I went back to the boat, retrieved it and came back with the gift. This Bible is really a very beautiful (and probably expensive) book; bound in leather with gold page edges. Racheal is overwhelmed and says that no one has ever given her anything like this before. Greg takes a picture of the presentation so you can see it in the blog album.
After dinner, Racheal returns to the resort with her 20 year old daughter to say thank you again and to get a copy of the picture. I will always remember our stopover at Waya.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Day 209 Naviti Island
Greg and Debbie on Volaré are interested in visiting an island renowned for snorkeling with the manta rays so before 0800 we are both headed north to seek an anchorage nearby. The destination is near Naviti Island in the Yasawa group.
The Yasawas are like the Mananucas, volcanic with a barrier reef and spectacular beaches. The snorkeling here is the best we have seen in the entire trip. The table corals are two to three feet across and there are numerous fan and staghorn corals as well as a variety of others whose names I don’t know.
When it comes to names, I am even more handicapped at naming the fishes. To do so here would mean knowing a hundred different names of reef fishes. All I know is that they come in a huge variety of colors, shapes and sizes and are very beautiful. There are so many in some places that surface diving easily puts you in the middle of a cloud of swirling color.
We also see a few small shy sharks and a deadly poisonous scorpion fish (or lion fish). This flower like shape swims lazily near the bottom and we admire it from a safe distance. Beach bathers occasionally step on these fish and are badly injured by the poison in their spines.
Tonight we enjoy another wahoo dinner. One nice fish like the one we caught yesterday can provide us with several generous and delicious meals.
The Yasawas are like the Mananucas, volcanic with a barrier reef and spectacular beaches. The snorkeling here is the best we have seen in the entire trip. The table corals are two to three feet across and there are numerous fan and staghorn corals as well as a variety of others whose names I don’t know.
When it comes to names, I am even more handicapped at naming the fishes. To do so here would mean knowing a hundred different names of reef fishes. All I know is that they come in a huge variety of colors, shapes and sizes and are very beautiful. There are so many in some places that surface diving easily puts you in the middle of a cloud of swirling color.
We also see a few small shy sharks and a deadly poisonous scorpion fish (or lion fish). This flower like shape swims lazily near the bottom and we admire it from a safe distance. Beach bathers occasionally step on these fish and are badly injured by the poison in their spines.
Tonight we enjoy another wahoo dinner. One nice fish like the one we caught yesterday can provide us with several generous and delicious meals.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Day 208 Navadra Island
This morning we weigh anchor and head for an anchorage that is between Navadra Island and Vaua Levu in the Mamanuca Island group at S17º27.6 by E177º04.2. Talerra left yesterday and reported on the radio that the area is beautiful.
We sail about halfway until the wind dies and turn on the motor for the rest of the way. We are accompanied by Greg and Debbie on Volaré. They live in Sydney, Australia but their boat is a Catalina 42 built and purchased in California. This is their fourth boat and Greg researched a long time before deciding on a Catalina. Volaré is clearly a fast boat and quickly outdistances us. Debbie does not participate much in the sailing so Greg is mostly single handing – another sign of very capable boat design. Later in the day, I get a tour and am quite impressed. The cabin is spacious and comfortable and the layout is very practical.
The anchorages is in a lagoon between the two islands. This island group is of volcanic origin and like the Marquises Island, they are topped with spires – remnants of the cone of a volcano. Unlike the Marquises, however, they have a barrier reef and a lagoon and this means the opportunity for a shallow anchorage and beaches. In fact, the beaches are quite spectacular – broad and covered with soft white sand. This is spoiled a tiny bit by the shards of coral and bits of pumice that are mixed with the sand – but close to perfect is still pretty nice.
There are several other boats already at anchor so we organize a beach barbecue to take place at “four fingers” and by sunset we have a cozy fire on shore with a dozen yachties enjoying grilled steaks and a freshly caught wahoo. Life can be tough when cruising
We sail about halfway until the wind dies and turn on the motor for the rest of the way. We are accompanied by Greg and Debbie on Volaré. They live in Sydney, Australia but their boat is a Catalina 42 built and purchased in California. This is their fourth boat and Greg researched a long time before deciding on a Catalina. Volaré is clearly a fast boat and quickly outdistances us. Debbie does not participate much in the sailing so Greg is mostly single handing – another sign of very capable boat design. Later in the day, I get a tour and am quite impressed. The cabin is spacious and comfortable and the layout is very practical.
The anchorages is in a lagoon between the two islands. This island group is of volcanic origin and like the Marquises Island, they are topped with spires – remnants of the cone of a volcano. Unlike the Marquises, however, they have a barrier reef and a lagoon and this means the opportunity for a shallow anchorage and beaches. In fact, the beaches are quite spectacular – broad and covered with soft white sand. This is spoiled a tiny bit by the shards of coral and bits of pumice that are mixed with the sand – but close to perfect is still pretty nice.
There are several other boats already at anchor so we organize a beach barbecue to take place at “four fingers” and by sunset we have a cozy fire on shore with a dozen yachties enjoying grilled steaks and a freshly caught wahoo. Life can be tough when cruising
Monday, October 1, 2007
Day 207 Prepare to depart
The sky is as clear as it gets and there is little wind. The GRIB files show a large high-pressure system sitting over Fiji and extending almost to New Zealand. This is not the right time to leave so we decide to head north for a few days and enjoy some of the outer islands. By now, the departure preparation is routine – wash the boat inside and out, provision, plot the course and get ready to pull up the anchor early the next day for the passage.
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Day 206 Rugby
Fijians are avid rugby players. Their national team is doing well in the world cup. The cup is being played in France and the games are broadcast live at 1 AM and 7 AM in most hotels and even local bars.
In Musket Cove, we watched several of the matches because the other teams that are doing well are New Zealand, Australia, England and South Africa – the same population profile of the yachties.
Here in Denerau, the broadcasts are shown at the local hotels and a blackboard in the lobby announces the next few days of matches. We watch for the South African Springbocks and enjoy cheering them on.
In Musket Cove, we watched several of the matches because the other teams that are doing well are New Zealand, Australia, England and South Africa – the same population profile of the yachties.
Here in Denerau, the broadcasts are shown at the local hotels and a blackboard in the lobby announces the next few days of matches. We watch for the South African Springbocks and enjoy cheering them on.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Day 205 Bula culture
The word bula is a Fijian word that the Lonely Planet Guide translates as meaning hello. For Fijians, the word appears to mean a lot more than that. Fijians have a reputation for friendliness. When you pass a Fijian walking down the street they look up, smile and often utter an almost explosive BULA which would seem to mean “Hello, how are you, welcome to my paradise and have a great day”. (Try saying it with a lot of force while smiling broadly. You will see the effect). I suspect this is one source of their reputation as it definitely exudes a friendliness that is unique. We saw the smiling greeting in Rarotonga but the Bula adds an additional emphasis.
The Indo-Fijians are a bit more reserved. Since they speak English and not Fijian, they simply say hello. That is good enough but they also lack the broad open smile that is characteristic of Fijians and Polynesians.
The Lonely Planet Guide says that Fiji is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the South Pacific. I cannot remember Fiji being on the top of people’s list in the U.S. and the percent of U.S. tourists seems to be a small minority. Lonely Planet is published in Australia so that may explain their perspective.
The Indo-Fijians are a bit more reserved. Since they speak English and not Fijian, they simply say hello. That is good enough but they also lack the broad open smile that is characteristic of Fijians and Polynesians.
The Lonely Planet Guide says that Fiji is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the South Pacific. I cannot remember Fiji being on the top of people’s list in the U.S. and the percent of U.S. tourists seems to be a small minority. Lonely Planet is published in Australia so that may explain their perspective.
Friday, September 28, 2007
Day 204 Nadi again
The Southern Star gang went to Nadi with Dave and Malanie of Talerra to for groceries and a few boat items. We went to the open-air market and to the conventional supermarket and were able to find most things we wanted. Shopping in the U.S. and Europe really spoils one. There is so much variety and so much range of ethnic foods that you become used to the ease with which you can find anything. The markets in Nadi are not bad and once you become used to the unfamiliar brand names or packaging it gets easier. There is definitely a bias toward Australia/New Zealand tastes and products and Indian foods are everywhere. In the open-air markets, the focus is on locally grown which means more root vegetables than greens. Taro, breadfruit and mango are abundant and it is possible to find tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, cabbage, potatoes and delicious pumpkins. These latter vegetables are green and not orange. We discovered pumpkins in Suva when Mark and I wandered past a vendor and got talked into buying one. From then on, they became an essential ingredient in Mark’s curry.
Our predilection for Mexican food goes largely unsatisfied. I have tried to make tortillas and the result is edible and utilitarian (we can make a serviceable taco) but they come out a bit leathery and not soft and supple like the real thing. They were better when I had “tortilla flour” that we bought in Mexico but I should be able manage with all-purpose flour as well. Maybe it is the temperature of the pan? I will keep trying.
The contrast between Nadi and Denerau was more apparent on this visit. Nadi is the native town and most is old and crowded. Some parts are a bit run down and shabby. Denerau is the new upscale development for foreigners who have a lot of money in local terms. The houses are upper middle class by U.S. standards with air conditioning, landscaping and their own dock. Because the two are separated by several miles there is no demarcation line, rather, they seem like two different worlds.
Our predilection for Mexican food goes largely unsatisfied. I have tried to make tortillas and the result is edible and utilitarian (we can make a serviceable taco) but they come out a bit leathery and not soft and supple like the real thing. They were better when I had “tortilla flour” that we bought in Mexico but I should be able manage with all-purpose flour as well. Maybe it is the temperature of the pan? I will keep trying.
The contrast between Nadi and Denerau was more apparent on this visit. Nadi is the native town and most is old and crowded. Some parts are a bit run down and shabby. Denerau is the new upscale development for foreigners who have a lot of money in local terms. The houses are upper middle class by U.S. standards with air conditioning, landscaping and their own dock. Because the two are separated by several miles there is no demarcation line, rather, they seem like two different worlds.
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Day 203 Windlass repaired
The windlass came back today and Mark and Andy put it back into place and for the first time in about 30 days, we have a trustworthy mechanical way of lowering and raising the anchor. With a reliable windlass, we can move to the marina dock where we can stern tie Southern Star and have access to power and water.
Mark asks me if I wanted to drive (since there was plenty of room on the dock and not much chance of hitting another boat) and I gladly agree. He gives me instructions in advance for changing the position of the boat as the wind swings it so that it gets to the intended place. Southern Star is heavy and has a “barn door” rudder and is not as quick to respond as the little racing machines with their spade rudders. Also, because the prop is rotating in one direction, the stern tends to move to port (to the left) when backing up with the wheel in the center position. As a result steering the stern the way I used to steer my outboard does not work with the same precision.
The good news is that everything goes according to plan and I am pleased that I am able to bring the Star to its intended position on the dock.
With the windlass repaired we can think about a few side trips if we want while we wait for the right weather to venture south. Also, being on the dock allows us to come and go more easily as we do not need dinghy access.
The Santa Barbara yacht Windekind is next to us with our young friends Eric and Will so we know this will mean movies, card games and night -time entertainment for the younger set. Apparently, the surf must be down or Windekind would not be at the marina
Mark asks me if I wanted to drive (since there was plenty of room on the dock and not much chance of hitting another boat) and I gladly agree. He gives me instructions in advance for changing the position of the boat as the wind swings it so that it gets to the intended place. Southern Star is heavy and has a “barn door” rudder and is not as quick to respond as the little racing machines with their spade rudders. Also, because the prop is rotating in one direction, the stern tends to move to port (to the left) when backing up with the wheel in the center position. As a result steering the stern the way I used to steer my outboard does not work with the same precision.
The good news is that everything goes according to plan and I am pleased that I am able to bring the Star to its intended position on the dock.
With the windlass repaired we can think about a few side trips if we want while we wait for the right weather to venture south. Also, being on the dock allows us to come and go more easily as we do not need dinghy access.
The Santa Barbara yacht Windekind is next to us with our young friends Eric and Will so we know this will mean movies, card games and night -time entertainment for the younger set. Apparently, the surf must be down or Windekind would not be at the marina
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
Day 202 Nadi
Although there is quite a bit of shopping at Denerau, the city of Nadi (pronounced nahn’ di) is only 6 miles away (a $US6 taxi ride) and prices and selection are supposed to be better.
I share a ride with the crew from Moonraker, which is anchored outside the harbor. I want to spend the day shopping for some mundane things like some insoles for my running shoes and a set of headphones for my computer to replace the ones stolen in Samoa. (The headphones I need are the type used to talk on Skype)
My first stop is the famous Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami temple that is one of the largest Hindu temples in the South pacific and their “annual festivals attract devotees from around the world” according to the Lonely Planet Guide.
The temple is dedicated to the various forms of Lord Siva and is quite intricate and very well maintained. A guide greets me and instructs me to remove my shoes and not to take pictures inside, but he adds that by standing outside near the open structure, I can take all the pictures I want. You will see the results in the picture album that accompanies this blog.
For the rest of the day, I wander down the main street and into many of the shops. The shopkeepers are all Indo-Fijian and are friendly but a bit more assertive than the native Fijians. It is easy to say no but there is definitely a sales pitch the moment you enter a store.
One exception to this is the open-air produce market where many of the sellers are native Fijian. I have a good time asking the vendors to smile so I can take their picture and I think I will have some great shots.
I finally find what I am looking for and am glad I made the trip. The insoles were $F16 in Denerau and are $F6 in Nadi a saving of the same six U.S. dollars I spent on the taxi ride.
I share a ride with the crew from Moonraker, which is anchored outside the harbor. I want to spend the day shopping for some mundane things like some insoles for my running shoes and a set of headphones for my computer to replace the ones stolen in Samoa. (The headphones I need are the type used to talk on Skype)
My first stop is the famous Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami temple that is one of the largest Hindu temples in the South pacific and their “annual festivals attract devotees from around the world” according to the Lonely Planet Guide.
The temple is dedicated to the various forms of Lord Siva and is quite intricate and very well maintained. A guide greets me and instructs me to remove my shoes and not to take pictures inside, but he adds that by standing outside near the open structure, I can take all the pictures I want. You will see the results in the picture album that accompanies this blog.
For the rest of the day, I wander down the main street and into many of the shops. The shopkeepers are all Indo-Fijian and are friendly but a bit more assertive than the native Fijians. It is easy to say no but there is definitely a sales pitch the moment you enter a store.
One exception to this is the open-air produce market where many of the sellers are native Fijian. I have a good time asking the vendors to smile so I can take their picture and I think I will have some great shots.
I finally find what I am looking for and am glad I made the trip. The insoles were $F16 in Denerau and are $F6 in Nadi a saving of the same six U.S. dollars I spent on the taxi ride.
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Day 201 Windlass
We located a service in Latoka that can repair our windlass and will come and pick it up.
Mark and Andy spend several hours removing the windlass, which is a heavy-duty motor attached to a winch whose surface is a ridged spool that grips the chain. Only four bolts hold it into place but the electrical contacts need to be disconnected and the chain fed through the gate. We have 200 feet of chain so this forms a big pile on the deck. In addition, the winch body is sealed to the deck so removing it requires breaking the seal – a feat that ends up taking a large hammer to accomplish.
The rest of the day is spent watching the current rugby world cup (South Africa and New Zealand are among the favorites) and learning more about the weather on the Internet.
Mark and Andy spend several hours removing the windlass, which is a heavy-duty motor attached to a winch whose surface is a ridged spool that grips the chain. Only four bolts hold it into place but the electrical contacts need to be disconnected and the chain fed through the gate. We have 200 feet of chain so this forms a big pile on the deck. In addition, the winch body is sealed to the deck so removing it requires breaking the seal – a feat that ends up taking a large hammer to accomplish.
The rest of the day is spent watching the current rugby world cup (South Africa and New Zealand are among the favorites) and learning more about the weather on the Internet.
Monday, September 24, 2007
Day 200 Meteorology
We are anchored in the shallow harbor and not on the marina wall. We decided to anchor in the harbor because the windlass has now completely quit working and we have to lower and raise the chain by hand – not an easy chore. We did replace the heavy steel anchor with a lighter weight aluminum one but the chain itself is very heavy and pulling it up from the bottom is quite an effort.
We can easily get to shore in the dingy and from there can catch a free shuttle to any of the hotels. Near the Sheraton is an upscale coffee shop that has free WiFi and “Starbucks quality” coffees at almost Starbucks prices.
We spent a good part of the day in the Internet looking at weather charts with Dave from Talerra. The weather in this part of the Pacific originates at the equator and at the South Polar latitudes. These two systems collide at about 30º North Latitude. Cold air systems originate from the cold South and hot, moist air from the tropics. The cold air heads North and the warm air goes South but the spinning of the Earth biases them eastward across the Pacific. This causes periodic fronts that contain unstable air i.e. storms that could be violent. The yachting journals are filled with accounts of sailboats heading south to New Zealand and being damaged or lost in these storms. We want to avoid that!
Conventional wisdom has it that when the leading (or Eastern) edge of a high-pressure system reaches the West cost of Australia, it is time to head south. Since the magic 30º south latitude is about 4 to five days away from Fiji, by the time we reach 30º, the leading edge of the high should have passed and we will avoid any violent collision of weather systems. This would mean clear sailing to the 30º mark followed by favorable winds for the remainder of the trip to NZ.
One of the fascinating tools used to forecast the weather is a publication from NOAA called the GRIB files. NOAA is the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and is part of the U.S. Department of Commerce. GRIB is a grid based computer algorithm that predicts future weather patterns around the globe for 10 days in advance. No human intervention is used in this prediction. In other words, no weatherman looks at the data and tries to guess. The whole system is automatic and probably runs on a Cray supercomputer. Access to the files is on a subscription basis and so far as I know anyone in the world can subscribe.
The amazing thing is that all the yachting sources say that the GRIBs are “eerily” accurate. My questions are who the heck developed the algorithm and who paid for it? The Department of Defense perhaps?
The bottom line is that knowing how to sail a boat may be one thing and knowing how not to sink the boat may be another thing entirely.
We can easily get to shore in the dingy and from there can catch a free shuttle to any of the hotels. Near the Sheraton is an upscale coffee shop that has free WiFi and “Starbucks quality” coffees at almost Starbucks prices.
We spent a good part of the day in the Internet looking at weather charts with Dave from Talerra. The weather in this part of the Pacific originates at the equator and at the South Polar latitudes. These two systems collide at about 30º North Latitude. Cold air systems originate from the cold South and hot, moist air from the tropics. The cold air heads North and the warm air goes South but the spinning of the Earth biases them eastward across the Pacific. This causes periodic fronts that contain unstable air i.e. storms that could be violent. The yachting journals are filled with accounts of sailboats heading south to New Zealand and being damaged or lost in these storms. We want to avoid that!
Conventional wisdom has it that when the leading (or Eastern) edge of a high-pressure system reaches the West cost of Australia, it is time to head south. Since the magic 30º south latitude is about 4 to five days away from Fiji, by the time we reach 30º, the leading edge of the high should have passed and we will avoid any violent collision of weather systems. This would mean clear sailing to the 30º mark followed by favorable winds for the remainder of the trip to NZ.
One of the fascinating tools used to forecast the weather is a publication from NOAA called the GRIB files. NOAA is the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and is part of the U.S. Department of Commerce. GRIB is a grid based computer algorithm that predicts future weather patterns around the globe for 10 days in advance. No human intervention is used in this prediction. In other words, no weatherman looks at the data and tries to guess. The whole system is automatic and probably runs on a Cray supercomputer. Access to the files is on a subscription basis and so far as I know anyone in the world can subscribe.
The amazing thing is that all the yachting sources say that the GRIBs are “eerily” accurate. My questions are who the heck developed the algorithm and who paid for it? The Department of Defense perhaps?
The bottom line is that knowing how to sail a boat may be one thing and knowing how not to sink the boat may be another thing entirely.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Day 199 Denerau Island
By mid-morning, we were on our way to Denerau Island. Denerau is hardly an island being separated from the “mainland” of Viti Levu by the Nadi River, which is spanned by a short bridge. Fifteen years ago when the Fiji Cruising Guide was written, Denerau was mostly a mangrove swamp but was beginning to be developed as a destination resort base for upscale hotel complexes, timeshares and private homes mostly for vacationers from Australia and New Zealand. Today there are extensive facilities including a Hilton, Sheraton, Westin, Radison and others. The private homes are built on a canal such that each has a small dock attached. They look quite high class and very much like the kind of communities you might see in Florida.
The island is replete with a plethora of recreational options including a golf course ($US 100 per round), diving, snorkeling, skydiving, fishing, etc, etc. In other words, almost anything involving the ocean that you would find at the finest resorts anywhere. The only things missing – but now being built – are fancy shops, restaurants and nightclubs. There are some already completed but not to the extent one would find in US, Caribbean or European resorts.
Like the Society Islands of French Polynesia, Fiji in Melanesia has discovered tourism as an industry. Right now they cater mostly to an Australia/New Zealand audience because of airfare and the length of the trip but at some point they will discover the “package deal” and North America/ Europe marketing and the place will take off.
One additional draw to this area is the easy access to the “outer” islands of the Mananucas and Yasawas – both reputed to be very beautiful with white sand beaches and great diving and snorkeling. These are easily reached by daily ferries from Denerau and from watching the number of people who board these boats every day, it would seem they are also successful in drawing the tourists.
The only down side is the negative press about the politics of Fiji. The coup has chased away 20 to 25% of the tourists even though I have not found anyone who has seen any effect “on the ground”. Again, marketing – in this case negative – has had a strong effect on the tourist economy.
The island is replete with a plethora of recreational options including a golf course ($US 100 per round), diving, snorkeling, skydiving, fishing, etc, etc. In other words, almost anything involving the ocean that you would find at the finest resorts anywhere. The only things missing – but now being built – are fancy shops, restaurants and nightclubs. There are some already completed but not to the extent one would find in US, Caribbean or European resorts.
Like the Society Islands of French Polynesia, Fiji in Melanesia has discovered tourism as an industry. Right now they cater mostly to an Australia/New Zealand audience because of airfare and the length of the trip but at some point they will discover the “package deal” and North America/ Europe marketing and the place will take off.
One additional draw to this area is the easy access to the “outer” islands of the Mananucas and Yasawas – both reputed to be very beautiful with white sand beaches and great diving and snorkeling. These are easily reached by daily ferries from Denerau and from watching the number of people who board these boats every day, it would seem they are also successful in drawing the tourists.
The only down side is the negative press about the politics of Fiji. The coup has chased away 20 to 25% of the tourists even though I have not found anyone who has seen any effect “on the ground”. Again, marketing – in this case negative – has had a strong effect on the tourist economy.
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Day 198 Planning
With most of the boats gone from Musket Cove, it is now possible to get on the Internet and post the blog pages I have been writing for the past weeks so you will see Days 180 to 197 now filled in.
In the February 17 page of my blog I talked about saying goodby to little Chorna our faithful Lhasa Apso of 17 years. I said at the time I did not expect to see her again and indeed several weeks later I learned that she had died peacefully. I mention this now because last night I dreamed about her as she was in her prime. Thus, her memory continues to live at its best. Hooray for Chorna.
We are now in the mode of planning for the passage that could be our toughest as the weather heading south could be quite difficult. We download the weather files every day and are thinking of various strategies for the passage. Probably we will head southwest until we run out of the tradewinds at about 20 degrees south latitude and then hope to ride the back of an eastward passing low pressure to make our way back southeast to Opua in New Zealand. Stay tuned.
In the February 17 page of my blog I talked about saying goodby to little Chorna our faithful Lhasa Apso of 17 years. I said at the time I did not expect to see her again and indeed several weeks later I learned that she had died peacefully. I mention this now because last night I dreamed about her as she was in her prime. Thus, her memory continues to live at its best. Hooray for Chorna.
We are now in the mode of planning for the passage that could be our toughest as the weather heading south could be quite difficult. We download the weather files every day and are thinking of various strategies for the passage. Probably we will head southwest until we run out of the tradewinds at about 20 degrees south latitude and then hope to ride the back of an eastward passing low pressure to make our way back southeast to Opua in New Zealand. Stay tuned.
Friday, September 21, 2007
Day 197 Recovery
Yachts began departing today and there were lots of goodbyes and exchanged e-mail addresses. The packed marina thinned out and there were spaces on either side of Southern Star where boats had been.
We originally thought about going to Vitu Levu so we could do a last provisioning and the administrative checkout in Latoka but we realized that by the time we got there, everything would be closed. Like most of Polynesia and Melanesia, the stores and government offices close on Saturday at noon and are not open again until Monday morning.
We have agreed to “buddy boat” to New Zealand with Dave and Melanie of Talerra so we met with them to discuss options and plans. We need to go to Latoka at some point but the anchorages there are not very desirable as it is a port where they process sugar cane and black soot covers everything. Also, the desirable weather window for going south usually does not occur until mid-October so we need a place to “hang out” and watch the weather reports until the time is right. One possibility is Robinson Crusoe Island where we stopped on the way to Musket Cove but the water was cloudy from the river and not a very desirable place to swim and snorkel. Finally we settled on the Yasawa Group of islands since they are close and are reputed to have good anchorages with clear water.
The plan at the moment is to stay in Musket Cove until Monday, go to Latoka or some point near while we provision, use the Internet and complete the administrative check out procedure. After that we will find a good anchorage in the Yasawa Group until the weather is right for the crossing to New Zealand.
In the meanwhile, we passed the day by swimming in the pool, playing cards, reading our books and visiting with the other yachties who are still around.
We originally thought about going to Vitu Levu so we could do a last provisioning and the administrative checkout in Latoka but we realized that by the time we got there, everything would be closed. Like most of Polynesia and Melanesia, the stores and government offices close on Saturday at noon and are not open again until Monday morning.
We have agreed to “buddy boat” to New Zealand with Dave and Melanie of Talerra so we met with them to discuss options and plans. We need to go to Latoka at some point but the anchorages there are not very desirable as it is a port where they process sugar cane and black soot covers everything. Also, the desirable weather window for going south usually does not occur until mid-October so we need a place to “hang out” and watch the weather reports until the time is right. One possibility is Robinson Crusoe Island where we stopped on the way to Musket Cove but the water was cloudy from the river and not a very desirable place to swim and snorkel. Finally we settled on the Yasawa Group of islands since they are close and are reputed to have good anchorages with clear water.
The plan at the moment is to stay in Musket Cove until Monday, go to Latoka or some point near while we provision, use the Internet and complete the administrative check out procedure. After that we will find a good anchorage in the Yasawa Group until the weather is right for the crossing to New Zealand.
In the meanwhile, we passed the day by swimming in the pool, playing cards, reading our books and visiting with the other yachties who are still around.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Day 196 Final Regatta Day
The finals of the Hobie Cat races took all morning. In the earlier races, the wind was very light and the racing quite mild but today, the wind had picked up and the races got intense. No one capsized and there were no collisions but some of the finishes were won by less than a foot - thus creating a lot of excitement. At the end, the winning team was the same couple whose catamaran had won the Malolo race yesterday. Obviously, racing skill must count for something.
In the afternoon, there was a competition for decorated dinghies where the kids displayed great creativity. Little Colin and Camilla from Coconuts won and were so, so cute.
The evening was packed with prize-giving for the events of the week plus a Fiji dancing show and another pig roast. While the mood was festive, it also had the overtone of departure and separation as all of the yachties have seen and traveled with other boats for the entire season and will soon be heading off on the final leg of their journey and may be going to different destinations.
In the afternoon, there was a competition for decorated dinghies where the kids displayed great creativity. Little Colin and Camilla from Coconuts won and were so, so cute.
The evening was packed with prize-giving for the events of the week plus a Fiji dancing show and another pig roast. While the mood was festive, it also had the overtone of departure and separation as all of the yachties have seen and traveled with other boats for the entire season and will soon be heading off on the final leg of their journey and may be going to different destinations.
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Day 195 Malolo Race
We were invited to ride with Rick on Mufasa for the yacht race around Mololo Island. Mufasa is an offshore racing machine with heavy rigging and “grinders” to winch in the jib sheets (the lines that hold the jib sail in place). Rick runs a charter yacht business in Russell, New Zealand and is clearly keen about offshore racing (Al Borden, you would love this part).
The start was at noon but the boats were jockeying for position and testing out various sail configurations by 1000. Mufasa is equipped with a large spinnaker, which Mark and Rick set up so that it could be deployed on the downwind leg of the race.
We crossed the starting line in sixth place on an upwind leg and within a few miles had passed two other boats. The wind was stronger than anticipated so none of the boats had reefed their sails. This made for some interesting watching as two of the boats in front of us just about laid down in the water when a large gust of wind hit them. One of them was a 68 foot boat with a very tall mast and watching her tip toward the water was pretty awesome. These big keel boats are almost impossible to capsize as they weigh so much that the wind cannot really knock them down but they do “round up” into the wind as the air spills from their sails and this causes a rapid and somewhat uncontrolled turn to occur which can result in collisions during racing. Fortunately, this did not occur and the boats continued around the island. On the downwind leg, the wind was blowing at a pretty steady 20 to 25 knots, which was too strong for spinnaker use so none of the pretty balloons came out. I had put my camera away anyway as the deck was wet with spray.
Last year, the race lasted more than 4 hours but with stronger winds this year, the first boat – a catamaran – crossed the finish line in one hour and 36 minutes. This boat had been designed and built by a man in New Zealand and averaged 11 knots during the race. Mufasa, which is a mono-hull, hit 9.6 knots and finished seventh overall and fourth in mono-hulls at 1 hour and 58 minutes.
This was a very exciting day and aside from the fact that I lost another hat, it was really fun.
In the evening, there was another “event” at the island bar – the “Prince and Princess” party. As you might suspect, this means men dressing like women and visa versa. Some of the costumes were absolutely hilarious – like the two fat men in their 50’s in pink tutus with crowns and magic wands with stars on the ends. Under the tutus they were wearing thong underwear, which on a fat man looks pretty awful.
The start was at noon but the boats were jockeying for position and testing out various sail configurations by 1000. Mufasa is equipped with a large spinnaker, which Mark and Rick set up so that it could be deployed on the downwind leg of the race.
We crossed the starting line in sixth place on an upwind leg and within a few miles had passed two other boats. The wind was stronger than anticipated so none of the boats had reefed their sails. This made for some interesting watching as two of the boats in front of us just about laid down in the water when a large gust of wind hit them. One of them was a 68 foot boat with a very tall mast and watching her tip toward the water was pretty awesome. These big keel boats are almost impossible to capsize as they weigh so much that the wind cannot really knock them down but they do “round up” into the wind as the air spills from their sails and this causes a rapid and somewhat uncontrolled turn to occur which can result in collisions during racing. Fortunately, this did not occur and the boats continued around the island. On the downwind leg, the wind was blowing at a pretty steady 20 to 25 knots, which was too strong for spinnaker use so none of the pretty balloons came out. I had put my camera away anyway as the deck was wet with spray.
Last year, the race lasted more than 4 hours but with stronger winds this year, the first boat – a catamaran – crossed the finish line in one hour and 36 minutes. This boat had been designed and built by a man in New Zealand and averaged 11 knots during the race. Mufasa, which is a mono-hull, hit 9.6 knots and finished seventh overall and fourth in mono-hulls at 1 hour and 58 minutes.
This was a very exciting day and aside from the fact that I lost another hat, it was really fun.
In the evening, there was another “event” at the island bar – the “Prince and Princess” party. As you might suspect, this means men dressing like women and visa versa. Some of the costumes were absolutely hilarious – like the two fat men in their 50’s in pink tutus with crowns and magic wands with stars on the ends. Under the tutus they were wearing thong underwear, which on a fat man looks pretty awful.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Day 194 Olympics Day
This was the second day of Hobie Cat Races and Southern Star 1 (Andy and Kurt) and Southern Star 2 (Mark & Michael) looked forward to doing well but unfortunately, we were matched up against formidable competition and both of us lost our races. The other heats further narrowed the field for the planned finale on Thursday.
Following the Hobie Cats there were a series of “Olympic Games” on the beach including a coconut log toss and tug-of-war. Southern Star elected to limit our participation to cheering and watching.
After lunch there was a golf tournament on the 9 hole course using the “best ball” rule where each player hits from the best of the 4 balls. Mark and I teamed up with Jim and Wendy from Liahona and at the end of the day we were tied for first place at even par. Like any golf game, there were some great shots and some lost balls but we all had fun and ending up tied for first made it even better.
At tonight’s barbecue we received a nice shirt for our golfing performance after which there was a competition where women spoke for 3 minutes on the topic of “Why I hate sailing”. The prize was a bottle of Moet Chandon Champagne so the speeches were enthusiastic and quite funny. There was also a children’s category, which was even funnier.
Following the Hobie Cats there were a series of “Olympic Games” on the beach including a coconut log toss and tug-of-war. Southern Star elected to limit our participation to cheering and watching.
After lunch there was a golf tournament on the 9 hole course using the “best ball” rule where each player hits from the best of the 4 balls. Mark and I teamed up with Jim and Wendy from Liahona and at the end of the day we were tied for first place at even par. Like any golf game, there were some great shots and some lost balls but we all had fun and ending up tied for first made it even better.
At tonight’s barbecue we received a nice shirt for our golfing performance after which there was a competition where women spoke for 3 minutes on the topic of “Why I hate sailing”. The prize was a bottle of Moet Chandon Champagne so the speeches were enthusiastic and quite funny. There was also a children’s category, which was even funnier.
Monday, September 17, 2007
Day 193 Gulf Harbor race
Today was advertised as another race day with yachts sailing to the Gulf Harbor Resort on nearby Namotu Island. Again, not all of the yachts made the trip so we got a ride with Rob and Ben on Salicorn. This island was a bit farther away than the first one.
This time the theme was centered around the “Hairy man” and “”wet tee shirt” competitions – the latter of which thankfully had only female competitors.
Again, upon reaching the island, there were longboats to take people ashore and a lunch barbecue once everyone had arrived.
The competitions were held on the beach and with very little breeze and a hot sun, I felt like I was melting – ala the wicked witch of the North when Dorothy threw a bucket of water at her.
It felt good to be back on the boat and underway where there was a little shade and a breeze to provide some relief from the heat.
There are two reasons we have been reluctant to take Southern Star on these sojourns. One is that we are “med moored” with the stern against the marina where the boats are packed in like sardines and the bow anchor lines are likely to be over each other. Getting the boat out and back in again is not easy.
The second reason is that the “windlass” that raises and lowers the anchor is in need of repair and the less we use it from here to New Zealand the better. Once in NZ, we can get it repaired in a proper boat yard.
This time the theme was centered around the “Hairy man” and “”wet tee shirt” competitions – the latter of which thankfully had only female competitors.
Again, upon reaching the island, there were longboats to take people ashore and a lunch barbecue once everyone had arrived.
The competitions were held on the beach and with very little breeze and a hot sun, I felt like I was melting – ala the wicked witch of the North when Dorothy threw a bucket of water at her.
It felt good to be back on the boat and underway where there was a little shade and a breeze to provide some relief from the heat.
There are two reasons we have been reluctant to take Southern Star on these sojourns. One is that we are “med moored” with the stern against the marina where the boats are packed in like sardines and the bow anchor lines are likely to be over each other. Getting the boat out and back in again is not easy.
The second reason is that the “windlass” that raises and lowers the anchor is in need of repair and the less we use it from here to New Zealand the better. Once in NZ, we can get it repaired in a proper boat yard.
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Day 192 Hobie Cat races
On the other side of the island bar is a shallow lagoon. At 0900 everyone assembled for a series of Hobie Cat races. Hobie Cats are a lightweight 14-foot catamaran with a mainsail and jib that are sailed by two people. We entered two teams of Andy & Kurt and Mark & I. Both of us lost in the first heat but were then entered in the “Plate” competition and were allowed to race again against the other first round losers.
In the second races, we both won so we were eligible to race in the semifinals of the plate races on Tuesday. Although it was nice to win, I was disappointed to lose my brimmed hat, which blew off in the race when we were ahead so there was no chance to go back and retrieve it. This was the hat I bought because it was designed by a sailor who claimed it would never be blown off in the wind while sailing. I would like to meet this supposed ocean man.
In the afternoon, there was a swap meet where yachties could sell things they no longer needed. I thought hard about buying the nice scuba outfit for sale but decided it would be hard to carry around with me when I was hiking in New Zealand in a few weeks. It did look appealing, though.
We spent the rest of the afternoon cooling off by the pool. We are not far from the equator and even though it is early Spring here, the sun can be very hot. Most of the time there is a pleasant sea breeze that moderates the temperature but when the wind stops, it is quite hot.
In the second races, we both won so we were eligible to race in the semifinals of the plate races on Tuesday. Although it was nice to win, I was disappointed to lose my brimmed hat, which blew off in the race when we were ahead so there was no chance to go back and retrieve it. This was the hat I bought because it was designed by a sailor who claimed it would never be blown off in the wind while sailing. I would like to meet this supposed ocean man.
In the afternoon, there was a swap meet where yachties could sell things they no longer needed. I thought hard about buying the nice scuba outfit for sale but decided it would be hard to carry around with me when I was hiking in New Zealand in a few weeks. It did look appealing, though.
We spent the rest of the afternoon cooling off by the pool. We are not far from the equator and even though it is early Spring here, the sun can be very hot. Most of the time there is a pleasant sea breeze that moderates the temperature but when the wind stops, it is quite hot.
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Day 191 Pirates Day
The theme of the day was Pirates and about a third of the boats sailed three miles to another island resort named Beachcomber Island. The rest of the yachties got rides from the boats that made the trip and we hitched a ride with Eric and Will aboard Windekind.
Along the way, we had water balloon fights with several other boats. Mark brought along a super soaker and a giant rubber band launcher that can shoot a water balloon 50 yards or so. Eric, the captain of Windekind was able to maneuver the big boat so that we could come along side for some nice clear shots and still be out of range of the hand launched missiles from the other boats.
Once we anchored, a long boat from shore came out to bring in the yachties. Almost everyone was dressed in some form of pirate garb and the mood was very festive. There was a pleasant barbecue lunch followed by some dancing and by the time everyone was taken back to the boats there was just enough time to get back to Musket Cove by dark.
The small island next to the Musket Cove marina has barbecue facilities and the marina provides plates, silverware and a selection of salads and vegetables for anyone cooking their dinner. This is very convenient and since the barbecues surround the island bar it is probably quite profitable for the resort as well. We ate four of the steaks we had purchased at Robinson Crusoe Island and went to bed tired and well fed.
Along the way, we had water balloon fights with several other boats. Mark brought along a super soaker and a giant rubber band launcher that can shoot a water balloon 50 yards or so. Eric, the captain of Windekind was able to maneuver the big boat so that we could come along side for some nice clear shots and still be out of range of the hand launched missiles from the other boats.
Once we anchored, a long boat from shore came out to bring in the yachties. Almost everyone was dressed in some form of pirate garb and the mood was very festive. There was a pleasant barbecue lunch followed by some dancing and by the time everyone was taken back to the boats there was just enough time to get back to Musket Cove by dark.
The small island next to the Musket Cove marina has barbecue facilities and the marina provides plates, silverware and a selection of salads and vegetables for anyone cooking their dinner. This is very convenient and since the barbecues surround the island bar it is probably quite profitable for the resort as well. We ate four of the steaks we had purchased at Robinson Crusoe Island and went to bed tired and well fed.
Friday, September 14, 2007
Day 190 Musket Cove Regatta
We spend the morning getting a few groceries and doing laundry. Because there are so many boats here and many are ocean crossers who have met before on some previous anchorage weeks or months ago, there are continuous enthusiastic greetings everywhere. It is hard to walk to the end of the quay without meeting old friends that we have not seen in a while.
One interesting characteristic of the resort and apparently of most resorts in Fiji is that the staff remembers everyone’s name. It is quite impressive when you meet one of them just once and the next time they see you, they call you by name in a very warm and friendly way.
The evening started with an opening ceremony of speeches and announcements ending with Fijian fire dancing and the singing of the national anthems of the yachties. About eight groups assembled representing the countries represented in the marina. The U.S. had the most in attendance while Canada had only two and Norway had four. When it came time for the Fijians to sing their anthem, they assembled with the men at the back and the women in the front and sang in harmony. Also, there were many more verses than the others because it is sung in both Fijian and English. It was quite impressive.
The evening concluded with an open pit Pig Roast that included many delicious vegetables and fishes plus familiar deserts like apple pie alamode.
One interesting characteristic of the resort and apparently of most resorts in Fiji is that the staff remembers everyone’s name. It is quite impressive when you meet one of them just once and the next time they see you, they call you by name in a very warm and friendly way.
The evening started with an opening ceremony of speeches and announcements ending with Fijian fire dancing and the singing of the national anthems of the yachties. About eight groups assembled representing the countries represented in the marina. The U.S. had the most in attendance while Canada had only two and Norway had four. When it came time for the Fijians to sing their anthem, they assembled with the men at the back and the women in the front and sang in harmony. Also, there were many more verses than the others because it is sung in both Fijian and English. It was quite impressive.
The evening concluded with an open pit Pig Roast that included many delicious vegetables and fishes plus familiar deserts like apple pie alamode.
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Day 189 Motoring to Musket Cove
At 0600 we pull up the anchor and head out of the pass. Just before the reef, we almost run over a black and white sea snake that is about two feet long and a fat two inches in diameter. These are supposed to be very poisonous but they have a very small mouth and are unable to bite anything except one’s little finger. Nonetheless, people give them a wide berth if they see them in the water.
We turn west and at the end of Viti Levu Island; we go northward through Wilkes pass toward the Mamanuca Island group that contains the island Malolo Lailai and the Musket Cove Marina. Folklore says that the original European owner purchased Malolo Lailai for 50 muskets. Later it was sold for a lot more to a man named Dick Smith who then spent over 40 years and millions of dollars to create a destination resort. There are timeshare houses, a nice restaurant, many water activities and a wonderful beach. Also on the island is a second resort named Plantation. There is an airstrip with daily flights and a 9-hole golf course.
Over 30 years ago, Smith came up with the idea of a week long regatta for the boats that were heading west and it has now blossomed into over 80 boats and more than 200 people who will anchor and moor their boats for a week to enjoy races and various fun events.
We decide to med moor on the marina quay and are given a spot near Liahona who arrived the day before. At the end of the quay there is a small island where many of the week’s activities will take place. Also there is a barbecue area and a bar that stays open until midnight. Our spot on the quay is across from the bridge that leads to this island – very convenient.
Since the regatta does not start until tomorrow, we have a chance to wander around a bit and use the facilities including the pool and restaurant. There is a lot of space so the resort has a relaxed feel even though there are a lot of people here. The guests seem to be all Kiwis and Aussies although this would compete very favorably with Hawaii if the airfare were the same price. The weather is warm and there is little rain in this part of Fiji at this time of year so it makes a very pleasant vacation spot.
We turn west and at the end of Viti Levu Island; we go northward through Wilkes pass toward the Mamanuca Island group that contains the island Malolo Lailai and the Musket Cove Marina. Folklore says that the original European owner purchased Malolo Lailai for 50 muskets. Later it was sold for a lot more to a man named Dick Smith who then spent over 40 years and millions of dollars to create a destination resort. There are timeshare houses, a nice restaurant, many water activities and a wonderful beach. Also on the island is a second resort named Plantation. There is an airstrip with daily flights and a 9-hole golf course.
Over 30 years ago, Smith came up with the idea of a week long regatta for the boats that were heading west and it has now blossomed into over 80 boats and more than 200 people who will anchor and moor their boats for a week to enjoy races and various fun events.
We decide to med moor on the marina quay and are given a spot near Liahona who arrived the day before. At the end of the quay there is a small island where many of the week’s activities will take place. Also there is a barbecue area and a bar that stays open until midnight. Our spot on the quay is across from the bridge that leads to this island – very convenient.
Since the regatta does not start until tomorrow, we have a chance to wander around a bit and use the facilities including the pool and restaurant. There is a lot of space so the resort has a relaxed feel even though there are a lot of people here. The guests seem to be all Kiwis and Aussies although this would compete very favorably with Hawaii if the airfare were the same price. The weather is warm and there is little rain in this part of Fiji at this time of year so it makes a very pleasant vacation spot.
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
Day 188 RC Island - again
Liahona has decided to leave early and push on to Musket Cove but we ordered some meat yesterday and it will not be ready until this afternoon so we decide to stay one more night. Musket Cove is a 6-hour sail away and the extensive reefs make it unwise to sail at night so an early morning start is required for these short passages near the coral.
Fiji appears to be influenced a lot by Australia and New Zealand with the frequent meat markets being one of the results. One of the owners of Robinson Crusoe Island also owns a butcher shop where they sell meats in airtight sealed packages that are designed for the storage capability of yachts. Many of the boats we are beginning to see come here from the South and the Aussies and Kiwis like their meat so the butcher shops spring up to serve them. When the meat arrives in the afternoon it is very well sealed and should keep for a while in our minimalist freezer.
There is some talk of surfing but the waves are small and the wind is not right so we stay on the island relaxing much like yesterday. We teach the island owners how to play Oh Hell and have one of our typical marathon games. The surf spots, however, are visible in the distance, particularly one named Cloud Break. It is about 5 miles away but the spray from the waves hitting the reef can be seen above the horizon. Cloud Break is considered to be one of the top 5 surf spots in the world according to the Southern Star surfing experts.
Fiji appears to be influenced a lot by Australia and New Zealand with the frequent meat markets being one of the results. One of the owners of Robinson Crusoe Island also owns a butcher shop where they sell meats in airtight sealed packages that are designed for the storage capability of yachts. Many of the boats we are beginning to see come here from the South and the Aussies and Kiwis like their meat so the butcher shops spring up to serve them. When the meat arrives in the afternoon it is very well sealed and should keep for a while in our minimalist freezer.
There is some talk of surfing but the waves are small and the wind is not right so we stay on the island relaxing much like yesterday. We teach the island owners how to play Oh Hell and have one of our typical marathon games. The surf spots, however, are visible in the distance, particularly one named Cloud Break. It is about 5 miles away but the spray from the waves hitting the reef can be seen above the horizon. Cloud Break is considered to be one of the top 5 surf spots in the world according to the Southern Star surfing experts.
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Day 187 Robinson Crusoe Island
We want to make one more stop before reaching Musket Cove so we aim for Likuri Island just off the south coast of Viti Levu near the town of Natadola Beach. In the Lonely Planet Guide it says the Robinson Crusoe Resort is very friendly. This is confirmed when we call them on the radio to get directions for the pass through the reef and are told that they are sending a boat out to guide us in.
A very large Fijian man in a metal boat appears and not only guides us to the resort but tells us the best place to anchor. Our first impression is that the water is not at all clear – unlike the island we just left – and we realize that there is a river at the head of the harbor that puts silt into the water.
We all go ashore where we are welcomed by the owners – two couples from Australia. They invite us to participate in all of the activities of their guests and to use all of their facilities. The venue is a “backpacker’s” resort so the facilities are minimal but everyone seems nice and it has a bit of a Club Med feel with the workers interacting with the guests and seeming to have as much fun.
There is a young doctor from London, half a dozen Irish students and the rest of the guests are from Australia and New Zealand. The owners tell us that the normal number of guests is well over 100 but the current total is less than 50. Everywhere we go we hear the same story of the drop off in tourists due to the recent coup – yet, as I have said previously, there is no sign of political unrest. Since 911, the world has been a skittish place.
We spend one of the laziest days of the whole trip sitting in hammocks looking out at the lagoon and reading our books. Normally we would have some exercise in the water but this harbor does not look very inviting and we don’t even go in. I finish “The Sex Lives of Cannibals” - the second humorous book I have read that is written by someone who lived among the local people on a remote South Pacific Island and observed their unique culture. Since we have also observed some of this culture, the clever wit of these authors is quite entertaining.
We have dinner on the boat and retire early. It has been a strenuous day.
A very large Fijian man in a metal boat appears and not only guides us to the resort but tells us the best place to anchor. Our first impression is that the water is not at all clear – unlike the island we just left – and we realize that there is a river at the head of the harbor that puts silt into the water.
We all go ashore where we are welcomed by the owners – two couples from Australia. They invite us to participate in all of the activities of their guests and to use all of their facilities. The venue is a “backpacker’s” resort so the facilities are minimal but everyone seems nice and it has a bit of a Club Med feel with the workers interacting with the guests and seeming to have as much fun.
There is a young doctor from London, half a dozen Irish students and the rest of the guests are from Australia and New Zealand. The owners tell us that the normal number of guests is well over 100 but the current total is less than 50. Everywhere we go we hear the same story of the drop off in tourists due to the recent coup – yet, as I have said previously, there is no sign of political unrest. Since 911, the world has been a skittish place.
We spend one of the laziest days of the whole trip sitting in hammocks looking out at the lagoon and reading our books. Normally we would have some exercise in the water but this harbor does not look very inviting and we don’t even go in. I finish “The Sex Lives of Cannibals” - the second humorous book I have read that is written by someone who lived among the local people on a remote South Pacific Island and observed their unique culture. Since we have also observed some of this culture, the clever wit of these authors is quite entertaining.
We have dinner on the boat and retire early. It has been a strenuous day.
Monday, September 10, 2007
Day 186 Beqa Dive Resort
Remember to read “Mbengga” when you see “Beqa”
As Mark, Kurt and Andy head to shore in the dinghy, the entire resort staff is lined up on the shore singing goodbye to several departing guests. The Southern Star contingent arrives just in time to get a welcome song. Nice.
The bure turn out to be more than a beach hut. They are the guest cottages and each one is air conditioned and quite nice. We are allowed to use two of them for free for the day as a place to rest, cool off and shower. Beqa Dive Resort turns out to be a very yachtie-friendly place.
One unique characteristic of the resort is the wood sculptures that are everywhere. Three chairs and a table in the lounge area are carved in the shape of giant crabs and appear to be made of one piece of wood each. They must weigh over 100 pounds apiece. There are beautiful 5-foot high dolphin sculptures made from a silky smooth dark wood. I ask the manager where they come from and he says Indonesia. It seems it would be worth a trip there just to collect some of these unique pieces.
We spend the day snorkeling in the lagoon, swimming in the pool and playing cards and a domino game called “Mexican trains”. At 1630 the Staff begins to build a fire in a pit behind the resort dining area. This is subsequently covered with stones and then giant leaves and dirt. It is similar to the fire pits we saw in Rarotonga at the feast.
At 1730, drums start to beat and the guests, with us included, pull up chairs and watch as the pit is opened and the stones rearranged into a so they make a flat are of hot rocks. The firewalkers arrive dressed in grass skirts and proceed with an elaborate ceremony that concludes with walking slowly over the hot rocks. There is much yelling and calling out in Figian to heighten the mood. The actual “fire walking” is perhaps less impressive than the ceremony itself but I would recommend seeing it the next time you happen to be on Beqa Island in Fiji.
Before dinner the guests assemble to watch a video of today’s shark dive. They are disappointed that the 12-foot tiger shark did not show up and all they got to see was some very fat and mean looking 8-foot bull sharks swimming in the midst of a cloud of various types of 2-foot long fish. At the center of the action is a professional diver who hands out fish parts to fishy passers-by. It seems cheating a bit to bait the fish but the fish seem happy about it and it is a way to see lots of fish in one spot.
I ask one couple who arrived today where they are from and within three sentences we determine that Jack and Jill’s best friend is an old friend of mine from Santa Rosa. We exchange some stories about Marshall and retire to the dinner table for – of course – fish. This time we have to feed ourselves.
As Mark, Kurt and Andy head to shore in the dinghy, the entire resort staff is lined up on the shore singing goodbye to several departing guests. The Southern Star contingent arrives just in time to get a welcome song. Nice.
The bure turn out to be more than a beach hut. They are the guest cottages and each one is air conditioned and quite nice. We are allowed to use two of them for free for the day as a place to rest, cool off and shower. Beqa Dive Resort turns out to be a very yachtie-friendly place.
One unique characteristic of the resort is the wood sculptures that are everywhere. Three chairs and a table in the lounge area are carved in the shape of giant crabs and appear to be made of one piece of wood each. They must weigh over 100 pounds apiece. There are beautiful 5-foot high dolphin sculptures made from a silky smooth dark wood. I ask the manager where they come from and he says Indonesia. It seems it would be worth a trip there just to collect some of these unique pieces.
We spend the day snorkeling in the lagoon, swimming in the pool and playing cards and a domino game called “Mexican trains”. At 1630 the Staff begins to build a fire in a pit behind the resort dining area. This is subsequently covered with stones and then giant leaves and dirt. It is similar to the fire pits we saw in Rarotonga at the feast.
At 1730, drums start to beat and the guests, with us included, pull up chairs and watch as the pit is opened and the stones rearranged into a so they make a flat are of hot rocks. The firewalkers arrive dressed in grass skirts and proceed with an elaborate ceremony that concludes with walking slowly over the hot rocks. There is much yelling and calling out in Figian to heighten the mood. The actual “fire walking” is perhaps less impressive than the ceremony itself but I would recommend seeing it the next time you happen to be on Beqa Island in Fiji.
Before dinner the guests assemble to watch a video of today’s shark dive. They are disappointed that the 12-foot tiger shark did not show up and all they got to see was some very fat and mean looking 8-foot bull sharks swimming in the midst of a cloud of various types of 2-foot long fish. At the center of the action is a professional diver who hands out fish parts to fishy passers-by. It seems cheating a bit to bait the fish but the fish seem happy about it and it is a way to see lots of fish in one spot.
I ask one couple who arrived today where they are from and within three sentences we determine that Jack and Jill’s best friend is an old friend of mine from Santa Rosa. We exchange some stories about Marshall and retire to the dinner table for – of course – fish. This time we have to feed ourselves.
Sunday, September 9, 2007
Day 185 The Hookah
Kurt heads to the Frigates surf break with Rob in the Salicorn dinghy while the rest of us board Liahona for a day of diving on a sunken Japanese fishing boat about a quarter of a mile from where our boats are anchored. Another boat in the anchorage, Dive-Figi.com, has told us about the shipwreck and the buoy that marks the spot.
Liahona weighs anchor and when we get to the buoy, Rob and Laura from Dive-Fiji are already there in their dinghy with their dive gear. With their help we anchor the big catamaran on top of a coral head that is only about 20 feet across and sticks up from the 90 foot deep bottom to about 15 feet from the surface. From the water (snorkeling) it looks very strange to see this 50 foot long boat tethered to the top of a 75 foot tall thumb of coral.
Jim (Liahona) loads the “Hookah” in our dinghy and he and Mark set up the hoses. The hookah is a small air compressor connected to a one-cylinder gas powered motor. When running, it pumps air into hoses that end in scuba mouthpieces. Two divers can descend to about 75 feet but three put too much load on the system so the group goes down two at a time to inspect the boat that is lying upright on the bottom. The stern is in about 75 feet of water and the bow rests on the edge of the coral head at about 30 feet deep. The water is very clear and it is easy to see the entire boat from the surface. From what we understand, the boat hit one of these coral heads and sunk some years ago. There is a little coral growing from the sharp edges of the boat but mostly it is free of marine life.
I do some snorkeling in anticipation of diving and find that I cannot clear my left ear so I disappointedly decline. Wendy and Jim take some phenomenal pictures and we have a great day of diving and snorkeling.
Before we pull up anchor, Kurt and Rob (Salicorn) return and join in the diving.
Finally, overexposed to sun and salt water, we return to Southern Star and pull up our anchor to follow Liahona on the short trip to the island of Mbengga, which is shown on most maps as Beqa. There we anchor in front of the Beqa Dive Resort, which was known in former times as the Marlin Bay Resort and is quite famous among scuba divers as a top-of-class dive resort. We attempt to sign up for their shark dive but learn that the trip is already full. The manager offers us a free “bure” or beach hut and we decide to stay for another day and go to the fire walking ceremony tomorrow.
Liahona weighs anchor and when we get to the buoy, Rob and Laura from Dive-Fiji are already there in their dinghy with their dive gear. With their help we anchor the big catamaran on top of a coral head that is only about 20 feet across and sticks up from the 90 foot deep bottom to about 15 feet from the surface. From the water (snorkeling) it looks very strange to see this 50 foot long boat tethered to the top of a 75 foot tall thumb of coral.
Jim (Liahona) loads the “Hookah” in our dinghy and he and Mark set up the hoses. The hookah is a small air compressor connected to a one-cylinder gas powered motor. When running, it pumps air into hoses that end in scuba mouthpieces. Two divers can descend to about 75 feet but three put too much load on the system so the group goes down two at a time to inspect the boat that is lying upright on the bottom. The stern is in about 75 feet of water and the bow rests on the edge of the coral head at about 30 feet deep. The water is very clear and it is easy to see the entire boat from the surface. From what we understand, the boat hit one of these coral heads and sunk some years ago. There is a little coral growing from the sharp edges of the boat but mostly it is free of marine life.
I do some snorkeling in anticipation of diving and find that I cannot clear my left ear so I disappointedly decline. Wendy and Jim take some phenomenal pictures and we have a great day of diving and snorkeling.
Before we pull up anchor, Kurt and Rob (Salicorn) return and join in the diving.
Finally, overexposed to sun and salt water, we return to Southern Star and pull up our anchor to follow Liahona on the short trip to the island of Mbengga, which is shown on most maps as Beqa. There we anchor in front of the Beqa Dive Resort, which was known in former times as the Marlin Bay Resort and is quite famous among scuba divers as a top-of-class dive resort. We attempt to sign up for their shark dive but learn that the trip is already full. The manager offers us a free “bure” or beach hut and we decide to stay for another day and go to the fire walking ceremony tomorrow.
Saturday, September 8, 2007
Day 184 More surfing
Mark, Kurt, Andy, Jim and Wendy all got onto Salicorn by 0900 to head for the surf. Wendy has not surfed in years and is a bit nervous but they talk her into going so she brings along a board to try it out.
I snorkel for about an hour viewing the array of coral and small fish before swimming to the surf camp to arrange for all of us to have dinner tonight.
While there, a dive boat comes ashore to feed their guests lunch and I meet Larry Dinger, the U.S. ambassador to Fiji. He actually is responsible for 5 island groups also including Tonga, Kiribati, Tuvalu and Niue. He has been in the diplomatic corps for 20 years with a concentration of South Pacific assignments. We talk a bit about the politics of the South Seas and then I swim back to Southern Star. After lunch I take another long snorkel over the coral near shore where there is a profusion of small colorful fish.
At 1700 Salicorn returns with a cargo of weary but happy surfers. We have all had too much sun so dinner and bed are early.
I snorkel for about an hour viewing the array of coral and small fish before swimming to the surf camp to arrange for all of us to have dinner tonight.
While there, a dive boat comes ashore to feed their guests lunch and I meet Larry Dinger, the U.S. ambassador to Fiji. He actually is responsible for 5 island groups also including Tonga, Kiribati, Tuvalu and Niue. He has been in the diplomatic corps for 20 years with a concentration of South Pacific assignments. We talk a bit about the politics of the South Seas and then I swim back to Southern Star. After lunch I take another long snorkel over the coral near shore where there is a profusion of small colorful fish.
At 1700 Salicorn returns with a cargo of weary but happy surfers. We have all had too much sun so dinner and bed are early.
Friday, September 7, 2007
Day 183 Surfing
Frigates Reef
There are several famous surf spots in Fiji and Frigates is one of them. The surfing is at a break in the reef that we hear is a wet 40 minute dinghy ride so Salicorn decides to motor out in their 44 foot sailboat. Jim from Liahona and all of us from Southern Star go with them. The trip takes about a half an hour but is much more comfortable than the dinghy ride would have been.
Anchoring is tricky. The reef is mostly exposed and on the leeward side it drops off to a narrow shelf 20 to 30 feet deep and then to well over 100 feet. To get the anchor in place requires motoring up to a position quite close to the reef while carefully watching the depth gage. The moment it reads something less than 100, Rob lets go the anchor and hits reverse. It takes two tries but finally the anchor rests on the 20 foot deep ledge where it is securely locked onto the reef.
The surf is now only a 10 minute dinghy ride and the waves are “double overhead” high. (You can guess what that means). Since the tide is in, the reef near the surfing wave is a comfortable 2 feet or so under water, which means the surfer who falls is not immediately thrashed onto the sharp coral.
The boys do well and I try to take some photos but it is hard to get in position where the dinghy is safe from the waves and still close enough to get a good shot even with the long lens of the Nikon (which I usually do not take off the boat).
The boys take a break for lunch after about 3 hours and then go back out for another 3. Finally they are drug off the board (“Just one more…”) and we head for home. Everyone is exhausted, hungry and some are a little beaten up from losing the battle with the waves. Noneless, the stories of each ride complete with all the details are told repeatedly until we arrive back at the anchorage where we each go back to our respective boats.
This has been a worthwhile mental therapy session and the tired and sore muscles are nothing compared to the attitude adjustment that has been accomplished. If you know surfers, you know what I mean
There are several famous surf spots in Fiji and Frigates is one of them. The surfing is at a break in the reef that we hear is a wet 40 minute dinghy ride so Salicorn decides to motor out in their 44 foot sailboat. Jim from Liahona and all of us from Southern Star go with them. The trip takes about a half an hour but is much more comfortable than the dinghy ride would have been.
Anchoring is tricky. The reef is mostly exposed and on the leeward side it drops off to a narrow shelf 20 to 30 feet deep and then to well over 100 feet. To get the anchor in place requires motoring up to a position quite close to the reef while carefully watching the depth gage. The moment it reads something less than 100, Rob lets go the anchor and hits reverse. It takes two tries but finally the anchor rests on the 20 foot deep ledge where it is securely locked onto the reef.
The surf is now only a 10 minute dinghy ride and the waves are “double overhead” high. (You can guess what that means). Since the tide is in, the reef near the surfing wave is a comfortable 2 feet or so under water, which means the surfer who falls is not immediately thrashed onto the sharp coral.
The boys do well and I try to take some photos but it is hard to get in position where the dinghy is safe from the waves and still close enough to get a good shot even with the long lens of the Nikon (which I usually do not take off the boat).
The boys take a break for lunch after about 3 hours and then go back out for another 3. Finally they are drug off the board (“Just one more…”) and we head for home. Everyone is exhausted, hungry and some are a little beaten up from losing the battle with the waves. Noneless, the stories of each ride complete with all the details are told repeatedly until we arrive back at the anchorage where we each go back to our respective boats.
This has been a worthwhile mental therapy session and the tired and sore muscles are nothing compared to the attitude adjustment that has been accomplished. If you know surfers, you know what I mean
Thursday, September 6, 2007
Day 182 Pleasant sailing
Before 0800 we are headed out of the pass on our way to the Yanuka Island (next to Mbengga Island – on some maps this is spelled Beqa) just off the South coast of Viti Levu. This time we are sailing West and since we are going in the same direction as the wind, the sailing is very pleasant. Also, it is nice to leave behind the rain of Suva. The Lonely Planet says that Suva gets 30 cm of rain a year (that's about a foot) and during our stay, it rained for some part of every day. That got old quick. (Note: two days later I will meet the U.S. Ambassador to Fiji who tells me that the average annual rainfall in Suva is 120 inches per year). During our drive we noted that the rest of Viti Levu did not seem to be as wet. During the trip we see a pod of the big dolphins. We have seen three types of dolphins on our journey. The small ones, sometimes called “spinners” are about 3 to 4 feet long and are all grey. They usually just surface to breathe but sometimes they jump out of the water and apparently have a habit of spinning in the air. The most common kind are 5 to 6 feet long and grey with a white face. They surface to breathe and sometimes must of their back is out of the water. These are the ones who play in the bow wave of the boat and if they see the boat, they usually swim over to investigate. The kind we saw this morning look like they are on a mission. They usually swim in unison and always ignore the boat. Usually we see them at a distance of at least 100 yards. They are black and look like they are at least 8 feet long. To breathe, they come completely out of the water in a graceful but serious arch. I will have to look up dolphins the next time I get to the Internet and see if I can find out more about them.
By noon we have the hook down just off the beach of two surf camp resorts on Yanuka Island. After some chicken fajitas made from Gary Wahley's boneless chicken breasts, we had a nap and then play almost an hour of water polo - really just passing the ball around while treading water and occasionally swimming for an errant pass. For dinner, we barbecue the fillet steaks and are amazed at the outcome. The meat is so tender you could cut it with a fork. Not only melt-in-the-mouth tender but also very tasty. Is this where the meat comes from for those mail order fillets that cost $US10 apiece? Fiji may be a place where you need to be careful to not be cheated by some of the merchants but it is also the cheapest food we have seen on the entire trip and the occasional places like Wahley's butcher shop shine like a jewel in the dry grass. After dinner and a round of cards, we go to bed early with plans in place to surf tomorrow with Salicorn and Liahona.
By noon we have the hook down just off the beach of two surf camp resorts on Yanuka Island. After some chicken fajitas made from Gary Wahley's boneless chicken breasts, we had a nap and then play almost an hour of water polo - really just passing the ball around while treading water and occasionally swimming for an errant pass. For dinner, we barbecue the fillet steaks and are amazed at the outcome. The meat is so tender you could cut it with a fork. Not only melt-in-the-mouth tender but also very tasty. Is this where the meat comes from for those mail order fillets that cost $US10 apiece? Fiji may be a place where you need to be careful to not be cheated by some of the merchants but it is also the cheapest food we have seen on the entire trip and the occasional places like Wahley's butcher shop shine like a jewel in the dry grass. After dinner and a round of cards, we go to bed early with plans in place to surf tomorrow with Salicorn and Liahona.
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
Day 181 Provisioning
If you have been reading the blog you know the drill of leaving any port - get the laundry done, go to Customs and fill out the same forms again in triplicate, hit the Internet for an hour, go to the bank, fill up the fuel tanks and shop at the vegetable market, the bakery and the meat market. The meat market was fascinating. We had stopped at Wahley's two days before to buy the meat for the curry and were impressed by the cleanliness and the selection and quality of the meats. We had been waited on personally by the owner Gary Wahley a fifth generation butcher whose family had come to Fiji in 1852 from China (originally the name was Wah Li). When we wanted curry meat, Gary had gotten some London Broil out of the back, trimmed off the fat and even cubed it for us so it would be ready for the curry. This time we told Gary that we wanted some steaks for the barbecue so he brought a full boneless sirloin rib cut from the back and cut up two sets of fillet mignon steaks that were the leanest I have ever seen. There were two small steak sized pieces left over so after he weighed and priced the amount we wanted he added the extra steaks to the package. Eight generous sized fillets cost us $F40 ($US 24). Gary also said all the meat he sells is organic and since the beef was local we could imagine we had seen our steaks grazing the day before when we were on our drive. Gary Wahley's tiny meat market in Suva, Fiji could go toe to toe with any top of the line butcher shop in any big city in America. We wondered how that could be possible and then Jim noticed that next to the cash register was a file that contained the running tab for many hotels and restaurants. His little retail shop is apparently just the tip of the iceberg. Another treat we discovered at the farmer’s market was pinapple. They grow a smaller variety here than the Hawiian variety we are used to in the U.S. In the market they sell a half pinapple that has had the skin peeled off. The stem acts as the handle and eating it is somewhat like eating an ear of sweet corn. The meat is soft and sweet and when you are done you throw away the core (like the corn cob). Delicious.
After a stop at the Yacht club, we returned to the boat for dinner and a movie. We invited Rob and Ben from Salicorn over to watch the Perfect Storm - an appropriate movie for those at sea. We had met the "Salicorn boys" in Tahiti and seen them at several of the surf spots along the way. They are off to the same area we are going to tomorrow so we expect to see them on their boards.
After a stop at the Yacht club, we returned to the boat for dinner and a movie. We invited Rob and Ben from Salicorn over to watch the Perfect Storm - an appropriate movie for those at sea. We had met the "Salicorn boys" in Tahiti and seen them at several of the surf spots along the way. They are off to the same area we are going to tomorrow so we expect to see them on their boards.
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Day 180 Driving
Liahona has been in Suva for several days and at one restaurant, they met a Tongan man named Coy who said he would take them to the best surf spots so we rent a van and all pile in with the board strapped on the top. After 2½ hours of driving along the King's Highway that follows the South shore of Viti Levu Westward, we come to the small town of Sigatoka on the Sigatoka river. Along the way, we stopped at several promised locations but did not find any surf. Finally we are starving so we stop for lunch at a pleasant curry restaurant on the shore. After lunch, we proceed another half hour West to the "best" place around and here there is a pleasant beach but absolutely no surf. Coy had been out late the night before and slept most of the way only to awaken when we needed directions. Eight of us were crunched into the little van for 5 hours and by the time we got back we could hardly walk. The scenery was mildly interesting but not worth the torture of the van. To make matters worse, during the return trip, we look more closely at the restaurant bill and realize we have been overcharged by $F15. We return to the boat at dusk, tired, disappointed and feeling cheated. The only good part of the day was the curry that Mark had made the day before.
Monday, September 3, 2007
Day 179 Suva
At 0430 Mark wakes us all up. Suva harbor is in sight and we need to drop the sails and get ready to anchor. First we must negotiate the pass through the barrier reef. With the help of the GPS, we locate the two lights - line these up and you are aimed directly into the pass. The lights are blue and with the rain it is hard to keep them in sight. Behind us a tuna boat is approaching the harbor so we wait for him to go by and follow him into through the pass.
The Suva yacht club is West of the port and easy to find because there are many commercial ships in the harbor. As the sky brightens we pick out Liahona and drop the anchor nearby. After a long night, everyone is ready for more sleep.
More to come
The Suva yacht club is West of the port and easy to find because there are many commercial ships in the harbor. As the sky brightens we pick out Liahona and drop the anchor nearby. After a long night, everyone is ready for more sleep.
More to come
Sunday, September 2, 2007
Day 178 "Beating to weather"
There is still a trace of rain in the air but the day looks a little better. Moonraker pulls up anchor and heads North to Savusavu. The wind is now blowing from the East-Southeast (120º) so heading South to Suva looks a bit more favorable. We decide to wait until after lunch to leave. If we can make Suva in one overnight sail, we will arrive at first light.
We watch the people on shore walking to church dressed in their best. The woman wear bright dresses and the young boys wear their formal lava lavas. Instead of hats, the women wear flowers in their hair. We are too far away to see much detail but the color is obvious from our anchorage.
To pass the time we watch one more movie, this time the sea story "Master and Commander" with Russell Crowe. The sea scenes of storms off Cape Horn are amazing and make one realize just how violent the ocean can be.
After lunch we pull up our two anchors and head out of the pass. The wind is still from 120º so we need to sail East-Northeast a bit so we have the proper angle for clearing the end of the island. When we finally turn South-Southwest we are still "beating to weather" meaning that the wind and the waves are coming at us from 45º off the port (left) bow. (As Captain Crowe would say - the larboard bow). I am reminded of the statement in the sailing book that says only fools and racers sail into the wind but if we don't get on with it we could be in Levuka for a long time and we must get to Suva and try to get the windless looked at. The wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots with gusts to 30 and the waves are 10 to 12 feet high. As we sail, the bow frequently buries itself in the oncoming waves and spray covers the boat. The "dodger" (cover over the cockpit) keeps us pretty dry and Mark adequately describes the situation as "bleak".
I suspect I am not alone in thinking forward to our final passage to New Zealand. The distance is 1100 miles and the direction is the same one we are now heading. The weather will get colder as we get farther South and it is notoriously stormy. (Images of Master and Commander come to mind). If we can make our normal 120 miles a day this could mean 9 days of very bumpy sailing. Since I do a lot of the cooking, I am trying to think of how we can provision so that we can still eat well without having to be in the galley with hot liquids sloshing about.
On my watch - There is no moon and it is hard to tell where the sky meets the sea. A light rain is blowing through the cockpit driven by the 25 to 30 knot wind. When it was still light, we estimated the waves at 6 to 10 feet but there are occasional larger ones now. White spray punctuated by glowing phosphorescent dots surges to the side every time the bow plows into a wave. We are in a shipping lane so I continually watch for lights. There is one behind us and one off our starboard bow but neither is a collision danger. I can see the lights of Suva 40 miles away scattering off the mist. Finally it is 10 o'clock and I turn the watch over to Kurt and immediately go to bed.
We watch the people on shore walking to church dressed in their best. The woman wear bright dresses and the young boys wear their formal lava lavas. Instead of hats, the women wear flowers in their hair. We are too far away to see much detail but the color is obvious from our anchorage.
To pass the time we watch one more movie, this time the sea story "Master and Commander" with Russell Crowe. The sea scenes of storms off Cape Horn are amazing and make one realize just how violent the ocean can be.
After lunch we pull up our two anchors and head out of the pass. The wind is still from 120º so we need to sail East-Northeast a bit so we have the proper angle for clearing the end of the island. When we finally turn South-Southwest we are still "beating to weather" meaning that the wind and the waves are coming at us from 45º off the port (left) bow. (As Captain Crowe would say - the larboard bow). I am reminded of the statement in the sailing book that says only fools and racers sail into the wind but if we don't get on with it we could be in Levuka for a long time and we must get to Suva and try to get the windless looked at. The wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots with gusts to 30 and the waves are 10 to 12 feet high. As we sail, the bow frequently buries itself in the oncoming waves and spray covers the boat. The "dodger" (cover over the cockpit) keeps us pretty dry and Mark adequately describes the situation as "bleak".
I suspect I am not alone in thinking forward to our final passage to New Zealand. The distance is 1100 miles and the direction is the same one we are now heading. The weather will get colder as we get farther South and it is notoriously stormy. (Images of Master and Commander come to mind). If we can make our normal 120 miles a day this could mean 9 days of very bumpy sailing. Since I do a lot of the cooking, I am trying to think of how we can provision so that we can still eat well without having to be in the galley with hot liquids sloshing about.
On my watch - There is no moon and it is hard to tell where the sky meets the sea. A light rain is blowing through the cockpit driven by the 25 to 30 knot wind. When it was still light, we estimated the waves at 6 to 10 feet but there are occasional larger ones now. White spray punctuated by glowing phosphorescent dots surges to the side every time the bow plows into a wave. We are in a shipping lane so I continually watch for lights. There is one behind us and one off our starboard bow but neither is a collision danger. I can see the lights of Suva 40 miles away scattering off the mist. Finally it is 10 o'clock and I turn the watch over to Kurt and immediately go to bed.
Saturday, September 1, 2007
Day 177 Hunker down
We awake to another rainy day with the wind still coming from the Southeast at 15 to 20 knots. Leaving the island now would mean another day of tacking back and forth without making much progress. The 60 mile trip to Suva could easily take over 20 hours with the wind coming from this direction. In fact, yesterday we only made 2½ knots of forward speed with all the tacking we did.
We called Moonraker to see if they have any weather forecast information and they tell us that the wind direction is supposed to change tomorrow afternoon and the velocity should diminish some so we decide to wait until then to leave for Suva.
In the harbor there is a 12 to 18 inch white-capped wind chop that is driven by the strong winds. It is not possible to even get in our normal swim as the current would quickly sweep any swimmer onto the sea wall 200 yards behind the boat. It would take some real luck to get out of the water before being bashed by the waves.
The same wind chop would make a dinghy ride to shore a very wet proposition so we spend our day on the boat watching three movies, reading, napping, eating and playing cards.
We called Moonraker to see if they have any weather forecast information and they tell us that the wind direction is supposed to change tomorrow afternoon and the velocity should diminish some so we decide to wait until then to leave for Suva.
In the harbor there is a 12 to 18 inch white-capped wind chop that is driven by the strong winds. It is not possible to even get in our normal swim as the current would quickly sweep any swimmer onto the sea wall 200 yards behind the boat. It would take some real luck to get out of the water before being bashed by the waves.
The same wind chop would make a dinghy ride to shore a very wet proposition so we spend our day on the boat watching three movies, reading, napping, eating and playing cards.
Friday, August 31, 2007
Day 176 Tough sailing
Dawn is barely visible through the rain which is coming down in torrents. Liahona is determined to move on to Suva and since we are using their anchor and nervous about our own windlass, we decide to follow them out of the pass and sail South.
Once we are clear of the lee of the island, the wind and waves pick up. The rain is coming down so hard it is hard to see more than a few 100 feet. The wind direction is still from the Southeast requiring us to tack in order to make headway toward Suva. We sail Southwest for an hour and then turn East Northeast for the next hour and then repeat. After 6 hours we have made only about 14 miles in our intended direction. Finally Andy wins the catch-a-wave-over-the-bow prize and we all decide we would rather sit at a bumpy anchorage than sit on a boat that is being tossed around violently. For lunch we had some granola bars because it was too rough to do anything in the galley so we can't imagine what dinner will be like. It is time for a right turn to the town of Levuka on the island of Ovalau off the East coast of Viti Levu.
The pass is wide and well marked but the harbor faces East and the shore runs North to South so it is open to wind from 3 directions (S, E and N). Although the waves are stopped by the barrier reef, the SE wind is blowing 20 to 25 knots. With the help of some hand cranking, the windlass works again and we drop the main anchor in 40 feet of water and then set a second anchor by taking it out in the dinghy. The shallow shore area is not far behind us but the two anchors do not move and we feel securely set.
Only one other sailboat (Moonraker) is in the harbor and we hail them on the VHF to ask about the security of the anchorage. They confirm that the wind is strong but their anchor has held them without problem for two days. At 1700, Moonraker calls back and invites us for a drink. They even volunteer to come and get us in their dinghy which we welcome since our little rubber boat is very wet when there is a "wind chop" in the water.
Luke and Max pick us up in a very plush Zodiac with a 40 HP Honda engine ($$$). They are wearing white polo shirts with the name Moonraker on them - usually this means paid crew. Once on board, we meet Graham and Janet the English owners and our genial hosts. We have a nice visit and exchange experiences, things we have seen and names of other boats that we both have met. They have been about 2 weeks behind us at most of the islands and know many of the same people that we have enjoyed.
Moonraker is a sight worth seeing. It is 78 feet long and has a beam (width) that must be almost twice as wide as Southern Star. The stateroom would make most luxury apartments look shabby. Appointed in white wood it is sparkling clean and nicely decorated with paintings and even a (silk) flower arrangement. It does not seem to rock at anchor and one could imagine we are in an expensive hotel or condo. The boat was built at the Kelly shipyard in Auckland, NZ in 2000 but looks absolutely brand new. Graham is the third owner having bought the boat two years ago in Ft. Lauderdale, FL. It is appropriately registered in the Cayman Islands.
After a nice visit, we return to our little kingdom for a welcomed spaghetti dinner.
Once we are clear of the lee of the island, the wind and waves pick up. The rain is coming down so hard it is hard to see more than a few 100 feet. The wind direction is still from the Southeast requiring us to tack in order to make headway toward Suva. We sail Southwest for an hour and then turn East Northeast for the next hour and then repeat. After 6 hours we have made only about 14 miles in our intended direction. Finally Andy wins the catch-a-wave-over-the-bow prize and we all decide we would rather sit at a bumpy anchorage than sit on a boat that is being tossed around violently. For lunch we had some granola bars because it was too rough to do anything in the galley so we can't imagine what dinner will be like. It is time for a right turn to the town of Levuka on the island of Ovalau off the East coast of Viti Levu.
The pass is wide and well marked but the harbor faces East and the shore runs North to South so it is open to wind from 3 directions (S, E and N). Although the waves are stopped by the barrier reef, the SE wind is blowing 20 to 25 knots. With the help of some hand cranking, the windlass works again and we drop the main anchor in 40 feet of water and then set a second anchor by taking it out in the dinghy. The shallow shore area is not far behind us but the two anchors do not move and we feel securely set.
Only one other sailboat (Moonraker) is in the harbor and we hail them on the VHF to ask about the security of the anchorage. They confirm that the wind is strong but their anchor has held them without problem for two days. At 1700, Moonraker calls back and invites us for a drink. They even volunteer to come and get us in their dinghy which we welcome since our little rubber boat is very wet when there is a "wind chop" in the water.
Luke and Max pick us up in a very plush Zodiac with a 40 HP Honda engine ($$$). They are wearing white polo shirts with the name Moonraker on them - usually this means paid crew. Once on board, we meet Graham and Janet the English owners and our genial hosts. We have a nice visit and exchange experiences, things we have seen and names of other boats that we both have met. They have been about 2 weeks behind us at most of the islands and know many of the same people that we have enjoyed.
Moonraker is a sight worth seeing. It is 78 feet long and has a beam (width) that must be almost twice as wide as Southern Star. The stateroom would make most luxury apartments look shabby. Appointed in white wood it is sparkling clean and nicely decorated with paintings and even a (silk) flower arrangement. It does not seem to rock at anchor and one could imagine we are in an expensive hotel or condo. The boat was built at the Kelly shipyard in Auckland, NZ in 2000 but looks absolutely brand new. Graham is the third owner having bought the boat two years ago in Ft. Lauderdale, FL. It is appropriately registered in the Cayman Islands.
After a nice visit, we return to our little kingdom for a welcomed spaghetti dinner.
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Day 175 Makogai Island
S17º26 W178º57
We sleep fitfully because of the rough water in the anchorage and our concern that the anchor may not hold. At 0630 we are headed out of the reef pass and turn South toward Makogai Island. The plan is to sail for two hours, anchor at Makogai for lunch and then sail overnight to the Astrolabe reef near Kadavu Island.
As we proceed Southward, we find the wind has shifted so that it now comes from the Southeast. This means the wind and waves are 30º off our bow and we are in for a wet and bumpy ride. Liahona leads the way and we easily find the pass through the reef. By the time we drop the anchor, everyone is ready to relax a bit and leave the rough seas behind. We anchor off of another isolated beach - this time with no sign. The book says that Makogai was a leper colony years ago but now is an aquaculture research station. At about noon we see a boat with native divers heading around a point North of us.
For some time now, the windlass (the electric winch that lowers and raises the anchor) has been acting up and as we put the anchor down this time, it appears to be on its last legs. Something must be wrong with the electrical contacts inside. The combination of this situation and the rough seas outside the pass precipitates a change of plans. The two boats decide to spend the night at this island and wait out the wind and then go directly to the city of Suva on the big island of Viti Levu to try and get the windlass repaired. Suva is by far the largest city we will have visited (with a population of over 350,000) and we should be able to find the proper services for the windlass.
Although our anchorage is in an idyllic setting and the snorkeling is good, the wind is still strong and creates a concern about swinging on the anchor (being turned by the wind so the boat is closer to the shore) or dragging the anchor. Liahona is already too close to a submerged coral head to be satisfied with their anchorage so they pull up the hook and decide to motor around the point to investigate. A short while later they come back in their dinghy to report a much calmer anchorage in front of the research station. The windlass gives us one more effort and we follow the dinghy around the point.
Because it is very calm here and Liahona is safely anchored we decide to tie onto their stern and drop a small anchor that we can retrieve by hand from our own stern so that we do not drift into them. In this way, we use their main anchor and save the use of our windlass.
We have a pot luck dinner on Liahona with the curry that Mark made a few days ago along with a chocolate cake that Andy baked. Altogether a fine meal. The night is peaceful so we all get a good night's sleep.
My impression of Fiji has been changed markedly by these visits. All that I have read before this trip was about Polynesia but Fiji was never included as it is in Micronesia even though the same people populated both island groups. I somehow thought of Fiji as small and more isolated than Polynesia and the press coverage of the ongoing political turmoil gives one pause about visiting. What I have seen so far is quite a different story.
I had already determined that by population, land area and number of islands, Fiji is larger than the combined size of all the island groups we have visited so far. My impression of Savusavu and the island of Vanua Levu is one of a fairly modern place with reasonable infrastructure (roads, electrical service, telephones, Internet) and a beautiful and varied landscape. There is no evidence of political instability - no military vehicles, no overbearing police presence, not even any apparent tension between the Fijians and the Indo-Fijians. They all seem to work peacefully side by side. Even the seemingly restrictive land laws (only native Fijians can own land) leave enough freehold land to attract foreign investors who are building new resorts and wealthy Australians, Europeans and Americans who are buying land and building million dollar vacation retreats.
From a yachtie perspective, the place is a perfect spot to spend months exploring. The navigation is challenging due to the extensive coral reefs but with good charts, a GPS and enough time to be very careful, it seems possible to see more pristine uninhabited island beaches with clear lagoons than anywhere we have been to this point. Also, the people we have met are all very friendly and welcoming of visitors - as has been their reputation since they stopped eating their enemies a few hundred years ago. Everyone we have met speaks English and all the signs and official forms are in English as it is the only common language between the two populations.
From what I can see, I would recommend Fiji as a travel destination for anyone who wants the beauty of the South Pacific and who wants to be able to see it at an affordable price.
We sleep fitfully because of the rough water in the anchorage and our concern that the anchor may not hold. At 0630 we are headed out of the reef pass and turn South toward Makogai Island. The plan is to sail for two hours, anchor at Makogai for lunch and then sail overnight to the Astrolabe reef near Kadavu Island.
As we proceed Southward, we find the wind has shifted so that it now comes from the Southeast. This means the wind and waves are 30º off our bow and we are in for a wet and bumpy ride. Liahona leads the way and we easily find the pass through the reef. By the time we drop the anchor, everyone is ready to relax a bit and leave the rough seas behind. We anchor off of another isolated beach - this time with no sign. The book says that Makogai was a leper colony years ago but now is an aquaculture research station. At about noon we see a boat with native divers heading around a point North of us.
For some time now, the windlass (the electric winch that lowers and raises the anchor) has been acting up and as we put the anchor down this time, it appears to be on its last legs. Something must be wrong with the electrical contacts inside. The combination of this situation and the rough seas outside the pass precipitates a change of plans. The two boats decide to spend the night at this island and wait out the wind and then go directly to the city of Suva on the big island of Viti Levu to try and get the windlass repaired. Suva is by far the largest city we will have visited (with a population of over 350,000) and we should be able to find the proper services for the windlass.
Although our anchorage is in an idyllic setting and the snorkeling is good, the wind is still strong and creates a concern about swinging on the anchor (being turned by the wind so the boat is closer to the shore) or dragging the anchor. Liahona is already too close to a submerged coral head to be satisfied with their anchorage so they pull up the hook and decide to motor around the point to investigate. A short while later they come back in their dinghy to report a much calmer anchorage in front of the research station. The windlass gives us one more effort and we follow the dinghy around the point.
Because it is very calm here and Liahona is safely anchored we decide to tie onto their stern and drop a small anchor that we can retrieve by hand from our own stern so that we do not drift into them. In this way, we use their main anchor and save the use of our windlass.
We have a pot luck dinner on Liahona with the curry that Mark made a few days ago along with a chocolate cake that Andy baked. Altogether a fine meal. The night is peaceful so we all get a good night's sleep.
My impression of Fiji has been changed markedly by these visits. All that I have read before this trip was about Polynesia but Fiji was never included as it is in Micronesia even though the same people populated both island groups. I somehow thought of Fiji as small and more isolated than Polynesia and the press coverage of the ongoing political turmoil gives one pause about visiting. What I have seen so far is quite a different story.
I had already determined that by population, land area and number of islands, Fiji is larger than the combined size of all the island groups we have visited so far. My impression of Savusavu and the island of Vanua Levu is one of a fairly modern place with reasonable infrastructure (roads, electrical service, telephones, Internet) and a beautiful and varied landscape. There is no evidence of political instability - no military vehicles, no overbearing police presence, not even any apparent tension between the Fijians and the Indo-Fijians. They all seem to work peacefully side by side. Even the seemingly restrictive land laws (only native Fijians can own land) leave enough freehold land to attract foreign investors who are building new resorts and wealthy Australians, Europeans and Americans who are buying land and building million dollar vacation retreats.
From a yachtie perspective, the place is a perfect spot to spend months exploring. The navigation is challenging due to the extensive coral reefs but with good charts, a GPS and enough time to be very careful, it seems possible to see more pristine uninhabited island beaches with clear lagoons than anywhere we have been to this point. Also, the people we have met are all very friendly and welcoming of visitors - as has been their reputation since they stopped eating their enemies a few hundred years ago. Everyone we have met speaks English and all the signs and official forms are in English as it is the only common language between the two populations.
From what I can see, I would recommend Fiji as a travel destination for anyone who wants the beauty of the South Pacific and who wants to be able to see it at an affordable price.
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
Day 174 Namenalala Island
We have the anchor up before 0800 and head out of the pass behind Liahona. The plan is to sail for half a day and then anchor for the night next to the island of Namenalala at the end of the Namena barrier reef (S17º07 W179º04 for those of you who track this kind of thing on Google Earth). The wind is a mild 10 knots and the direction is comfortably down wind so the sail is easy and uneventful. By noon we enter the pass in the boundary reef around the island and put down the anchor next to a narrow strip of white sand beach that sticks out from the thick rain forest covering the mountain behind. It would look like an uninhabited paradise except there is a sign on the shore that says it is private land and a fee-based permit must be obtained for use. Since we are not using the land, we must be exempt.
Not long after we have anchored, a dive boat from the nearby Cousteau resort puts down an anchor next to us so their guests can enjoy a peaceful lunch between dives.
The trees on the shore are a rookery for birds and are full of young white boobies. Overhead circle black frigate birds ready to steal from the mature boobies that are fishing nearby. Also hanging from the trees are black fox bats who will leave at sunset to eat fruit in the jungle.
We all jump in with our snorkel gear and enjoy the reef that fringes the island. Again, the colors are a bit disappointing but the water is clear and there is an abundance of small and colorful fish as well as some larger parrot fish, clams and conchs. Kurt discoves that 30 feet further out from our boat there is a boat on the bottom that looks like and old barge. The water is over 60 feet deep at that point so it is too deep for us to do much exploring by just free diving.
After snorkeling a bit we enjoy lunch and a nap to catch up from having gotten up so early. In the late afternoon we play water polo for a bit to get some exercise followed by welcome showers and dinner. Life is good.
We are a bit wary of the anchorage as the reef and some shallow coral heads are close so we do not want to swing much on the anchor chain as that could get us into trouble. As much as we might enjoy this anchorage, we will not be 100% comfortable sleeping here.
I reflect back on last night's eclipse and the comments of the young Indian woman named Dolly who works at the Copra Shed Marina. She said that Hindus are not permitted to view the eclipse. In fact if a woman is pregnant and looks at the eclipse, her baby will be born deformed. While Dolly considers these views to be groundless superstition she still does not plan to give the eclipse a look. It always amazes me how people in the 21st century will direct their actions by the ignorance of the past. When people had no explanation of events, they made up a story. However, when the real explanation finally became known the story persisted even though the facts presented a different picture. My education in the scientific method has had an indelible influence on me. "Hypothesis, experiment, observation and proof" seem so logical, it is hard for me to think in any other way. If the hypothesis is not borne out by observation, it seems hard for me to understand how people can accept it. One example and 100 exceptions do not make a proof.
Not long after we have anchored, a dive boat from the nearby Cousteau resort puts down an anchor next to us so their guests can enjoy a peaceful lunch between dives.
The trees on the shore are a rookery for birds and are full of young white boobies. Overhead circle black frigate birds ready to steal from the mature boobies that are fishing nearby. Also hanging from the trees are black fox bats who will leave at sunset to eat fruit in the jungle.
We all jump in with our snorkel gear and enjoy the reef that fringes the island. Again, the colors are a bit disappointing but the water is clear and there is an abundance of small and colorful fish as well as some larger parrot fish, clams and conchs. Kurt discoves that 30 feet further out from our boat there is a boat on the bottom that looks like and old barge. The water is over 60 feet deep at that point so it is too deep for us to do much exploring by just free diving.
After snorkeling a bit we enjoy lunch and a nap to catch up from having gotten up so early. In the late afternoon we play water polo for a bit to get some exercise followed by welcome showers and dinner. Life is good.
We are a bit wary of the anchorage as the reef and some shallow coral heads are close so we do not want to swing much on the anchor chain as that could get us into trouble. As much as we might enjoy this anchorage, we will not be 100% comfortable sleeping here.
I reflect back on last night's eclipse and the comments of the young Indian woman named Dolly who works at the Copra Shed Marina. She said that Hindus are not permitted to view the eclipse. In fact if a woman is pregnant and looks at the eclipse, her baby will be born deformed. While Dolly considers these views to be groundless superstition she still does not plan to give the eclipse a look. It always amazes me how people in the 21st century will direct their actions by the ignorance of the past. When people had no explanation of events, they made up a story. However, when the real explanation finally became known the story persisted even though the facts presented a different picture. My education in the scientific method has had an indelible influence on me. "Hypothesis, experiment, observation and proof" seem so logical, it is hard for me to think in any other way. If the hypothesis is not borne out by observation, it seems hard for me to understand how people can accept it. One example and 100 exceptions do not make a proof.
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