Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Day 34 Finally a waterfall

More Fresh Water
After our disappointment at not finding the waterfall on Hiva Oa, we were determined to find Hanavave’s “Cascade”. At 0800 the crews of Dirigo (Denny and Terry), Far Niente (Eric and Giselle), No Regrets and Southern Star headed up the only road in Hanavave in search of the waterfall listed in the guide book.
Before setting off, we stopped into the school to drop off some gifts. The teacher spoke quite good English (in addition to French, Spanish, Marquisian and Tahitian).
The classrooms were covered with learning materials consistent with the age of the children. To say this was a rich environment would be an understatement. The teacher stressed that there was an emphasis on providing as broad an exposure as possible since the island was limited in this respect. She also mentioned the stress on the culture of respect for people and property (thus the cleanliness of the tiny village).
Mark gave them some balloons, a book and a puzzle which was graciously accepted. Each child filed by to shake hands, say hello and thank you and to say their French names. They also have Marquisian names but use the French with visitors.
We left the school impressed with the emphasis put on learning at this tiny island community. The teacher said that students go on to Hiva Oa for high school and then to Papeete for higher education. Unfortunately, few return to the island as there is no opportunity for employment.
After the school, we headed for the waterfall.
After two sweaty hours of following a path of diminishing size through the heavy vegetation, we came to a opening where a man and woman were clearing away the brush. Giselle had the best French skills so she was able to determine that we were not going the right way but with a little bushwhacking we could make it back to the right path. The woman led us on an almost unrecognizable path over very rough terrain until we finally emerged onto a trail that was only slightly wider. She then gave us specific directions to the cascade.
Terry tried to tip her but, as it says in the guidebook, giving money is not done in the Marquises. Finally Denny dug into his backpack and found a tee shirt which she gracefully accepted in trade for her help. I had the sense that even this was not necessary but the gesture was well received.
The rest of the trail was even more rugged than before, climbing over fallen trees and clambering over slippery rocks but there were stone markers to follow so we knew we were going in the right direction.
When we finally reached the cascade we found a vertical rock with a trickle of water and a very refreshingly cool pool. The swim was very welcomed at that point.
The day ended early as everyone was tired from the hike.
I returned to shore for one last fresh water shower at the end of the day and thought a bit about the nature of this adventure. No luxury hotel. No hot water. No plush towels. Only a shampoo and suds under a cold water tap on a rugged shore under the stars. Pretty cool!

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