By morining the sky has clouded over and at 0600 a light rain begins to fall. The sea is remarkably calm yet there is enough wind to continue pushing us along at 6 to 7 knots. By 0700 we are at S19º42 E176º37 (for those following this on Google Earth). At 0930 I calculate that we have made 130 n-miles in the first 24 hours.
The rain has cooled the air a bit and it is a pleasant day to take the dog for a walk and then come in and sit by the fire with a hot chocolate. We settle for just the hot chocolate.
By 1130 the rain stops and the fishing reel begins to sing. Andy gets first fish using the pole - previously he had set the boat record using the drag line. After a brief fight he brings in a primitive looking specimen that we think may be a Spanish mackerel. It is certainly from the same family as barracuda and wahoo with big ferocious teeth. It is not a big fish but even when gaffed, it tries to bite Mark’s hand.
I make the best batch of tortillas yet and Kurt demonstrates that the fish does not look so mean after being Tempura-batter fried. We sit down to a delicious lunch of fish tacos.
While underway, we tend to take naps during the day to make up for the sleep lost during watches. Also, the interruption of sleep to go on watch causes fatigue, thus the afternoon is spent quietly with at least two people asleep at any time.
The sky is overcast all day and rain begins again just as I hand over my watch at 10 PM.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Day 219 Denerau departure
By 0930 we have pulled the anchor and are proceeding out of the harbor. We turn south and motor sail for an hour until we have passed the reef near the Cloudbreak surf break.
At 1030 we turn off the engine and proceed under reefed sail and jib. The wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots from the southeast (120º). This is 60º off our bow as we bear 180º directly south. There are scattered clouds in the sky that make a fantastic backdrop for the sunset. There is no moon so by the time there is no more sunlight the sky and sea are very dark except for the phosphorescent plankton that lights up as the boat passes. In these conditions, we are making a very respectable 7 to 8 knots. This is perfect sailing weather.
By the end of my watch, the wind has backed to about 100º, which puts it off our beam (directly from the side) instead of off the bow. This is even a more comfortable point of sail. There is a lot of lightning behind us, probably over Fiji, but overhead it is partly cloudy and I can see my old friend Orion as I finish my watch.
At 1030 we turn off the engine and proceed under reefed sail and jib. The wind is blowing at 20 to 25 knots from the southeast (120º). This is 60º off our bow as we bear 180º directly south. There are scattered clouds in the sky that make a fantastic backdrop for the sunset. There is no moon so by the time there is no more sunlight the sky and sea are very dark except for the phosphorescent plankton that lights up as the boat passes. In these conditions, we are making a very respectable 7 to 8 knots. This is perfect sailing weather.
By the end of my watch, the wind has backed to about 100º, which puts it off our beam (directly from the side) instead of off the bow. This is even a more comfortable point of sail. There is a lot of lightning behind us, probably over Fiji, but overhead it is partly cloudy and I can see my old friend Orion as I finish my watch.
Friday, October 12, 2007
Day 218 Final preparations
The most pressing need seems to be the Internet. Everyone wants to post their blogs and photos before we leave. I try to post pictures to the album but the connection is slow and I end up paying $F16 to not get much accomplished.
The shopping has been done and the boat is clean and ship-shape. The preparation for this upcoming passage is much like it was in Mexico for the initial crossing from Puerto Vallarta. We anticipate 9 to 11 days but much more intense weather, especially when we get to 30º south latitude.
There are two schools of thought on this passage. One says that you carefully watch the weather and guess how the fronts will move. The other says that you leave when it is convenient, sail to 30º south latitude and check the weather again. If it is favorable you continue south. If not, you hang out for a few days and wait for favorable weather. As we were preparing today, the boat next to us told us that we should wait another week because he had checked the weather and his guess is that it will be better in a week. Who can tell the weather that far in advance?
Once we leave Denerau, we will be off the Internet for 9 to 11 days so there will be no blog postings until we make landfall in Opua, New Zealand.
The shopping has been done and the boat is clean and ship-shape. The preparation for this upcoming passage is much like it was in Mexico for the initial crossing from Puerto Vallarta. We anticipate 9 to 11 days but much more intense weather, especially when we get to 30º south latitude.
There are two schools of thought on this passage. One says that you carefully watch the weather and guess how the fronts will move. The other says that you leave when it is convenient, sail to 30º south latitude and check the weather again. If it is favorable you continue south. If not, you hang out for a few days and wait for favorable weather. As we were preparing today, the boat next to us told us that we should wait another week because he had checked the weather and his guess is that it will be better in a week. Who can tell the weather that far in advance?
Once we leave Denerau, we will be off the Internet for 9 to 11 days so there will be no blog postings until we make landfall in Opua, New Zealand.
Thursday, October 11, 2007
Day 217 Provisioning
In the morning we do another wash down of Southern Star so she is clean and ready to sail.
Mark and I grab a taxi to Nadi to do the last provisioning at the open-air victuals market, the meat market and at the supermarket.
While we are gone, Andy and Kurt clean and stow the dinghy. Everything else that we can do has been done. Mark replaced the prop shaft seal and the scupper hoses the other day and we have abandoned the idea that we will get the generator running for the trip.
Southern Star is ready, we are ready and now it is up to the weather. The GRIB files show favorable winds to 30º south latitude but do not predict further than 7 days in advance. There is a high-pressure system over Australia that is moving eastward and may reach us before we make landfall. This could mean some unfavorable wind and storms but we will not know that until we get there. At worst case, we will add one day to the trip by turning north to ride with the wind until the front passes and we can return to our southerly path. We will wait until Saturday to take advantage of the most favorable weather and to get one more day of predictions.
Mark and I grab a taxi to Nadi to do the last provisioning at the open-air victuals market, the meat market and at the supermarket.
While we are gone, Andy and Kurt clean and stow the dinghy. Everything else that we can do has been done. Mark replaced the prop shaft seal and the scupper hoses the other day and we have abandoned the idea that we will get the generator running for the trip.
Southern Star is ready, we are ready and now it is up to the weather. The GRIB files show favorable winds to 30º south latitude but do not predict further than 7 days in advance. There is a high-pressure system over Australia that is moving eastward and may reach us before we make landfall. This could mean some unfavorable wind and storms but we will not know that until we get there. At worst case, we will add one day to the trip by turning north to ride with the wind until the front passes and we can return to our southerly path. We will wait until Saturday to take advantage of the most favorable weather and to get one more day of predictions.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Day 216 Vuda to Denerau
Because of the recommendations of several other yachties, we decide not to paint the bottom of Southern Star here in Fiji. Because of the heat, we decide to move back to Denerau where there is a breeze and more to do in the marina and environs.
Kurt and Andy return just as we are ready to untie the lines and by mid morning we are underway. Before we can leave Fiji, we must check out at Latoka so we head north and anchor in Latoka harbor. Mark goes ashore and within an hour is back on the boat and we are headed south to Denerau.
By late afternoon we are stern tied to the dock next to Windekind. We celebrate this evening with Windekind and Moonraker. Tomorrow Graham and Janet from Moonraker will fly home for a few weeks so there is a farewell party. Eric’s Mom is visiting Windekind so there is a welcoming party. Did we need these excuses for a party? Not really.
Kurt and Andy return just as we are ready to untie the lines and by mid morning we are underway. Before we can leave Fiji, we must check out at Latoka so we head north and anchor in Latoka harbor. Mark goes ashore and within an hour is back on the boat and we are headed south to Denerau.
By late afternoon we are stern tied to the dock next to Windekind. We celebrate this evening with Windekind and Moonraker. Tomorrow Graham and Janet from Moonraker will fly home for a few weeks so there is a farewell party. Eric’s Mom is visiting Windekind so there is a welcoming party. Did we need these excuses for a party? Not really.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Day 215 Still in Vuda
Not only is Vuda Point Marina isolated it is also very hot. The good news is that is protected from the wind. It there were a gale we would be safe. The bad news is it is protected from the wind. When the sky is clear and the weather hot, the boat deck is so hot it is difficult to walk on it barefoot.
We wait for the quote to repaint Southern Star and watch the weather GRIB files.
This evening, Kurt and Andy went off to Denerau to celebrate the birthday Eric on the Santa Barbara boat Windekind. Otherwise, there is not much to report.
We wait for the quote to repaint Southern Star and watch the weather GRIB files.
This evening, Kurt and Andy went off to Denerau to celebrate the birthday Eric on the Santa Barbara boat Windekind. Otherwise, there is not much to report.
Monday, October 8, 2007
Day 214 Exciting rugby
At 1AM Mark and I show up at Brian’s door and are welcomed in. Brian and his cute little terrier Ted live in a cozy house near the marina. He pulled some South African beef jerkey out of the freezer and Mark is in nostalgia heaven as the match starts. At one point South Africa is ahead 20 to 3; an automatic win for the team this far ahead – most of the time. With 13 minutes to go in the match, Fiji ties the score at 20:20 and I am wishing I was at the hotel instead of at Brian’s house. While this is more comfortable, the Fiji crowd must be going crazy. The island nations of Fiji, Tonga and Samoa do not even get to play in the International leagues yet they clearly can give the top teams a run for their money. By the end, South Africa has posted an impressive 37 to 20 win but the brave Fijians put on a proud display.
You have probably noticed by now that the last few days have not had much about activities of Southern Star. That is because there have not been many. Vuda Point Marina has very few activities available except the pool at the hotel and rugby on television. For U.S.$ 6 you can go to Latoka but there are no water-based activities like snorkeling and water polo in the ugly looking harbor water. There is the slow Internet where we do daily weather checks looking for favorable conditions for the passage south. Other than that and some conversation with fellow yachties, we spend our time watching and waiting.
You have probably noticed by now that the last few days have not had much about activities of Southern Star. That is because there have not been many. Vuda Point Marina has very few activities available except the pool at the hotel and rugby on television. For U.S.$ 6 you can go to Latoka but there are no water-based activities like snorkeling and water polo in the ugly looking harbor water. There is the slow Internet where we do daily weather checks looking for favorable conditions for the passage south. Other than that and some conversation with fellow yachties, we spend our time watching and waiting.
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